Sri Lanka Tour on a minimum solo backpackers budget

In 2011 i had visited North India and Nepal and hence decided to visit Sri Lanka in 2012. As a "Solo-Backpacker Tourist" decided to search the internet for the  cheapest air-fare and hence decided to board a flight from Chennai to Colombo, the cheapest airfare on this route."Solo Backpacking" although expensive and dangerous is the last frontier in human exploration in the 21st century .As a solo tourist you are the travel agent, tour planner ,tour budget  proprietor and tour blog writer , all roles in a single person. The journey from Mumbai to Chennai would be by train, the "Chennai Express". Co-incidentally happened to meet Mr Feroze .Vania, a travel agent owner of  "Best ways Travel International" at the Mahatma Gandhi Swimming pool in Mumbai during a normal daily swim and inquired about air-ticketing costs from Chennai to Colombo(Return fare).He advised me on the same and i confirmed a booking for Chennai-Colombo(Return) by "Spice Jet" airlines costing a total of  Rs 7215.Later booked my train tickets reservation  on the "Chennai Express" and hence my tour itinerary for Sri Lanka was a reality, scheduled to begin with departure  by train from Mumbai to Chennai  on Friday(19-10-2012). Next step was applying for the normal "ONE MONTH TOURIST VISA" for Sri Lanka, a format started in 2012.On Thursday(4-10-2012)  approached "Farshak Travels" situated near my residence and got the "Visa Application" applied on-line  on "www.eta.gov.lk" .The  normal visa fee is 10 US $'s  for Indian tourists, rest being the travel agency charges.Collected the "Visa Approval" from "Farshak Travels" on Monday(8-10-2012) , the total charges being Rs 1664. If  i had to apply directly from my internet at home  then the charges would have been only the normal U.S $ 10 or Rs 550, same  paid through debit or credit card.

Map  of Sri Lanka:- Courtesy "LONELY PLANET".

THE  BACKPACKER ROUTE  FROM MUMBAI TO COLOMBO:- Left my residence at 1900 hrs on Friday(19-10-2012), a backpack on my shoulder and a umbrella in hand, my only luggage for a 15 day solo tour voyage.Boarded the bus at Prabhadevi and reached Dadar Station , walking my way towards the outstation train terminus at Dadar(East).The "12163 Chennai Express" was already on the platform and on boarding compartment  "S8" and heading towards my seat  nos 49 heard a different language compared to the normal Marathi, Hindi and English spoken in Mumbai , the Tamil language of Tamilians from the state of Tamil Nadu. Barring Indians, most foreigners are baffled by the numerous languages and cultures existing within India, akin to various foreign Contry's  existing as a single Nation,This is the unique secularism and democratic federal form of governance that defines India. As the journey unfolded  had a conversation with Mr Narainan, a Russian linguist by profession who was travelling with his wife, young daughter and his aged  mother.The Narainan family shared some of their Tamilian  food delicacies with me and the entire journey was an exchange of ideas through conversation.As we approached the Tamil Nadu border the next day  on Saturday(20-10-2012) we were greeted with rain, ominous predictions of a wet monsoon ahead.The train reached Egmore station on scheduled time  and i made my way out of the station towards the cheapest lodge for the night. Checked into "Raj Residency Hotel" in Kennet Lane, opposite the railway station, the cheapest accommodation available at Rs700 for the night. On  entering room Nos 103 was greeted with a shabbily maintained self-contained room cum attached bathroom having a small 14 "  telivision set..After a quick bathe, went to the Dhabba restaurant  on the main road and had a Mutton Paratha curry dinner, excellent food at a moderate Rs 232.Came back to my room and watched the "Champions League T-20 Cricket Match "  between "Mumbai Indians" and "Chennai Superkings"  being played in South Africa upto 0100 hrs , my home city Mumbai Indians losing the match.After a sleepless night woke up on Sunday(21-10-2012) to a very wet rainy morning. The North East Monsoon had already made its presence felt during our train journey to Madras and now it was being physically felt in the city.After breakfast made my way towards the local train station in drizzling rain and booked a ticket(Rs 6) to Tirusalem, the  Chennai airport train junction. Made my way towards platform Nos 10 and boarded the "Chengalpattu Train" finally  reaching Tirusalem at 0940 hrs.On alighting at Tirusalem station had to walk a short distance through a subway  and then  towards the airport departure terminal, convenient and cheap commuting for a budget tourist.At 1030 hrs checked into the departure lounge after security check, my classic iron tipped umbrella being refused entry into my personal hand-carry luggage , considered a security threat! Whiled away my time on the "Free Internet " service provided  in the departure lounge until the boarding time to the plane. Flight was punctual and on schedule at 1300 hrs, a short flight of approx 1 hour 45 minutes.While flying over Sri Lanka saw the unique sight of a rainbow from the plane, the normal being seeing a rainbow from earth.The sight of the "RAINBOW COLOURS"  from space was mesmerizing a as also the view of Sri Lanka from the plane.I have personally landed at numerous airports and amongst all the airports, Sri Lanka presents the most beautiful natural view of greenery from space, the entire earth below looking green with isolated pockets of  houses.We finally landed at Bandaranaike Airport at approx 1445 hrs and after the necessary Customs and immigration formalities and  converting  some dollars into Lankan rupees at the Bank of Ceylon made my way out of the airport.

Public Bus Terminus in Colombo.

COLOMBO TO JAFFNA BY BUS.AN EPIC JOUNEY AND MEMORIES :- After departing from the airport  inquired about the airport "Shuttle Bus Service" to Averiwatta town. The "Shuttle Bus' was just a few meters away from the departure lounge and boarded it in the nick of time before its  departure to Aweriwatta.On reaching Aweriwatta at approx 1510 hrs  boarded a small mini A/C bus to Colombo..At approx 1630 hrs reached Colombo bus station and inquired about a direct bus to Jaffna. Jaffna was always in the "War News" during my entire shipping career and the passenger ship ""M.V.Akbar"  that i was employed on in 1989 had served as a  Indian troops transport ship during  the "I.P.K.F" mission in Sri Lanka's civil war.The Indian media always avoids mentioning the failed mission of the "I.P.K.F(Indian Peace Keeping force)" in bringing stability to that country with India losing its maximum soldiers during this failed war against the "L.T.T.E(Liberation of Tamil Tigers Elam)". India's former prime Minister Rajiv.Gandhi was also assassinated by the "L.T.T.E"  as a repercussion of the failed "Jaffna Liberation" effort by the "I.P.K.F".Final total defeat of the "L.T.T.E"  by the Sri Lankan Government forces in 2009 opened up former territories and war zones held by the "L.T.T.E" to civilians and tourists, myself being one of the few tourists venturing into the former war zone of Jaffna.The approximate direct distance from Colombo to Jaffna is approx 360 Kms by road.
Boarded a semi-luxury bus( Nos 15 S) at the Colombo bus terminus to Vavuniya, the main junction town  for boarding or alighting buses heading to the North and  North Eastern city's  of Sri Lanka.The ticket was a paltry  SL Rs 450( 1 Indian rupee =Rs 2.20 Sri Lankan) and as i later travelled the entire Country on bus and train realized that public transport travel is one of the cheapest in Sri Lanka.I felt of being  in a typical South Indian city as the features and mannerisms of the average common Sri Lankan is similar to South Indians barring the language of Tamil and Sinhalese which was alien to me.I was surprised that unlike   India ,although a  former colony of  Great Britain, few common Sri Lankans spoke English, a handicap for English speaking tourists although most board signs also have a English translation..Hawkers enter the bus to sell various eatables akin to South India and hence psychologically i was in familiar territory although visiting the Country for the first time in my life.The bus departed Colombo bus station at approx 1715 hrs, myself seated in the front row behind the driver, three people to a seat.My "Backpack  bag" was kept on the front of my seat near my legs and  the bus packed with passengers, akin to a common Mumbai bus, the ultimate in hardcore  "Backpacker travel.There were photos of various Hindu gods and Goddesses along with the meditating posture of the Buddha on the glass panel in front of the driver and the normal evil eye mascot of  hung threaded limes. .During the entire bus journey there was continuous music playing  on the c.d system of the bus, either Tamil or Sinhalese since both languages are alien to me.There  was a brief stop for toilet relief and dinner  at a restaurant at  approx 2100 hrs where i tasted common Sri Lankan mangoes.After dinner the bus finally departed for Vavuniya  reaching "Vavuniya bus-stop" at approx 0015 hrs ,past mid-night.Luckily there was a connecting  "60 Nos" bus at Vavuniya just about to leave for Jaffna and the bus conductor guided me to this bus parked at the  bus-stop.The bus immediately started and finally i was heading towards the tragic and fascinating city of Jaffna..The road to Jaffna was bad as can be expected after decades of civil war and after approx 45 minutes of road travel we arrived at a "Military checkpost" , the first instance of such an encounter in my life.A soldier arrived into the bus and asked local passengers for their special "I.D.Cards" while myself, the only tourist, was asked to alight and answer a few questions to the local officer  at the check-post .I was asked the reasons for travelling to Jaffna, besides , a xerox  copy  of my passport was kept at the security office.After the brief security check the bus began its onward journey to Jaffna in the dark quiet night.At approx 0200hrs there was a brief halt at "Jeevan hotel"  at Murugandy  for refreshments and toilet utility.As for me, it was an epic sleepless journey that began on Sunday morning in Egmore in Madras and now  continued in sri Lanka, reminding me of the tough sea-life  marine engineering career that was a part of most of my youth and middle-age life existatence.We finally reached Jaffna main bus-stand   at approx 0400 hrs, a very unearthly hour for a newcomer tourist . "Pirashath cold bar and fruit"  shop  situated  near the bus-stand was the only shop open and i quickly made myself comfortable in this shop.After a cup of tea  inquired directions to some of the city's tourist sites like "Point Pedro" , "Nallur Kandaswamy temple","Jaffna Fort", and  the "Jaffna Fish Market". I requested the shop owner to keep my backpack in his shop for safe-keeping till noon . My intention was to quickly sight-see the main town and later in the afternoon to proceed to Trincomalee .I always do my tourist homework at home on the internet before embarking on any tour or solo-backpacking adventure.The shopkeeper agreed to keep my backpacker bag at his shop, advantage of being the rare tourist at this hour to the city, a great relief. It was pitch dark in the surrounding vicinity of the main bus-stand, besides, this city was still in the process of recovering from decades of bloody civil war where enemies and friends were still in dispute.A customer at the shop happened to speak Hindi and did advise me a little on the city ,advising me to be cautious.Later i just strolled around the bus-stop inquiring about various bus routes and happened to come across a policeman Mr Thiyaga.Rajah who happened to travel in the same bus with me.He spoke reasonable English and was a policeman during the various phases of the civil war, having served under both, the L.T.T.E controlled Jaffna and later the Sri Lanka  controlled Jaffna..The local bus services began at  0630 hrs and i inquired if it was possible for tourists to visit Mullaitivu where the last battle between the "L.T.T.E" and the Government forces was fought.The living military quarters of the L.T.T.E chief Velupillai.Prabhakaran  at Mullaitivu was on display for the public and being a history nut decided to visit the city.Policeman Thiyaga advised me to visit Mullaitivu,  rather than Point Pedro which had the northern most lighthouse in Sri Lanka. Buses were  readily available at 0630 hrs to both Mullaitivu and Point Pedro. Ultimately i decided to avoid  both places as the bus journey would be another few hours on bad roads in unpredictable monsoon weather, besides, i had not slept since the last 24 hours having travelled by plane from Chennai  and now by  road to elusive Jaffna. As day light broke i walked around the city inquiring for directions with local residents.It was akin to an early morning walk or jog along Mahalaxmi race-course in Mumbai.All the main important  sites are situated in a circumferential  order  around the town centre  of Jaffna , conveniently located within a 3 to 4 Km walking distance from the main bus-stand which is the town centre of Jaffna..Walking straight from the bus-stop along Main Street  came across the  Duryappah stadium situated directly opposite the renowned Jaffna library.Walking further came across the Jaffna Court complex and a small garden called Subramaniam Childrens park. This part of the city seemed normal but further down the road came across a few broken buildings and a unique sight of huge banyan tree roots attatched to the skeleton of a former building, all reminisces of decades of war and abandonment of a city.Pror to the civil war, Jaffna city was the second most populated city in Sri Lanka after  the capital Colombo.

Mr Sriskantha.Retnam at his war ruined building, a Jaffna Citizen who has witnessed the entire history of its civil war.

                                                            Came across a garage and a lonely man within its property.As usual i picked up a conversation with Mr Sriskantha.Retnam, owner of this property and garage and luckily, a gentleman who could speak English.He had been a resident of Jaffna since the 1960's and hence an authority to comment on the practical side of the effects of the civil war on the common Jaffna population.He was unafraid to speak his thoughts and told me that most residents had fled the city during the civil war, including himself, his garage and building damaged in mortar shelling as were the other nearby buildings.After the end of the civil war in 2009 he has returned with his family to Jaffna and reclaimed his garage building but is bitter at not receiving any compensation from the Government.This building was totally destroyed and he was just maintaining the garage as a source of income.The main roads in Jaffna have been rapidly rebuilt by the Sri Lankan Government, the only progress to local civilians according to a few locals.

Jaffna Fish Jetty and Auction Market."Church of our lady of Vaillankani" is in the distant background.

                                                                                                                                                      At approx  0700hrs made my way towards the famous Jaffna Fish jetty and was greeted by the sight of an army barrack situated at the entrance of the fish port jetty, a young soldier on sentry duty.On entering the jetty  was surprised at the Catholic influence in the fishing industry of Jaffna.The early morning fish catch was not large, most boats anchored along the causeway near the jetty  with  the odd boat getting a fresh catch of fish to the jetty.The statue of St Anthony close to the fishing village  and further down the shoreline , the  church of "Our Lady of Velankanni" painted in light blue colour  were prominent  catholic religious  edifices indicating that most Jaffna fisherfolk were from the catholic community.A small catch of fish was being auctioned at the main fishing jetty market, typical of any  fishing  jetty. The fishing village locality had a cluster of small houses, typical of a fishing village and i got to do some bird-watching at a small lagoon in the midst of the village. A pair of white breasted kingfishers were busy taking dives into the water to catch their morning fish, a beautiful sight.

JAFFNA'S  DECADES OLD  CIVIL WAR:- A abandoned house with huge Banyan roots growing on its walls.Notice the well paved roads compared to the ruined abandoned houses.This unique tree growth could become a future tourist site .Unique.

 At approx 0715 hrs after visiting the fishing jetty and surrounding fishing village made my way towards the "Dutch Fort" situated on "Kay's Road" near the Duryappah stadium.Entrance to the walled ruined fort was through muck  and on entering the Fort was surprised at being the only person as a tourist visitor, frighteningly lonely.Just the boundary walls of the Fort are intact, the rest in ruins.The Fort is being given a face-lift and repairs in progress, a future tourist attraction of Jaffna.From the Fort one gets a beautiful view of Jaffna Causeway and the lagoon that protects the port, a natural fishing harbour.After visiting the Fort made my way back towards the main town centre  called "Hospital road", a bizarre name for a city road that might have witnessed maximum hospital casualties during its civil war.Enroute  came across numerous school children going to school on bicycles, the most common mode of transport in Jaffna.Wonder what memories these young minds have of the brutal civil war that engulfed their Country, a part of their history study's in the near future.I had not brushed my teeth nor had my normal toilet defecation for over 24 hours and hence my bowels were giving its normal alert signals.At the town centre inquired about "Hotel Rolex" an address i discovered on the Internet, the most famous average non-vegetarian  tourist hotel of Jaffna."Hotel Rolex" was on "Hospital Street", a small restaurant  of  forty years,  having survived through the turbulent civil war and still in business.The first thing i did on entering the hotel was to inquire about the toilet and make a quick  bowel discharge, absolutely relieved of excess body weight pressure.Ordered a squid curry  with paratthas(Rs 300), excellent  and cheap food for the backpacker or adventure tourist.Had  a conversation with a young local Sri Lankan of Tamil descent.He spoke fluent English and the conversation drifted to various topics including the brutal civil war.After lunch i collected my backpack from the shop and made my way towards the local private bus-stand situated on"Sampath Bank Road".My brief whirlwind tour of Jaffna was complete, absolutely haggard for having not slept since the last 27 hours, besides a non-stop journey consisting of air, bus and foot-walking.One glaring observation was that none of the major historical landmarks or religious  buildings were destroyed in the civil war.Another strange absence was the posters of Hindi or Tamil film icons like Amitabh.Bachchan or Rajnikanth since Jaffna had a majority Indian origin Tamil population,language differences being the  basic reasons for the civil war.  Hindi music was not  played  during  the entire  bus journey from Colombo to Jaffna, the first time that  i came across a  total blackout of the Hindi film Industry  in a Asian country, that too our neighbour.The Jaffna clock tower which was  the tallest and  most visible monument was very much intact depicting the time in quartz form, the quartz watch definitely a recent addition to this historical edifice. What fascinated me most was the reasons for the prolonged decades old   civil war in such a small country where the distance between  "L.T.T.E" rebel held territories of Jaffna, Mullaitivu  and Killinochi  and  the Government capital Colombo is just a few hours journey by normal road travel.Why was  one of the World's mightiest military powers, India's "I.P.K.F" mission a failure in stopping the civil war? Why was the end of the war in May  2009 so sudden and abrupt with the total annihilation of the entire "L.T.T.E" top leadership including the entire family of Velupillai.Prabhakaran? "Elementary Watson, some questions are best left unanswered" , my favourite fictional detective Sherlock.Holmes would have  said  if ordered to investigate the Sri Lanka theatre of Civil War. I trudged my way towards the private bus-stop on Sampath Bank road finally witnessing personally the aftereffects of a civil war on a population of a city. Bus  nos "88 S" from Jaffna to Trincomalee was scheduled to depart at 1030 hrs but was delayed by an hour.

Main Town Centre of Jaffna city.

TRAVELLING THE CIVIL WAR "A 9" ROAD  FROM JAFFNA to TRINCOMALEE :- Bus Nos "88S" finally departed from "Sampath Bank Road" bus Stand of Jaffna at approx 1135 hrs, delayed by an hour to collect its normal quota of passengers.The return journey from Jaffna to Trincomalee was in broad daylight and hence got a view of the after-effects of the civil war.The roads were well paved and smooth, no bumps , the countryside lined with palm trees, some burnt, definitely during an exchange of fire during the civil war. Trincomalee is 181 Kms(113 miles) from Jaffna and is World famous for its natural harbour, the 5th largest natural harbour in the World.The bus route from Jaffna to Vavuniya had to pass along the "A9 Highway", a major theatre in the brutal days of the civil war.As the bus passed through Killinochi on excellent recently paved roads i observed "Skull & Bones" danger sign-posts  with "MINES" written on them jutting out of the ground  all along the edge of the countryside bordering the main road.Soldiers in "De-Mining  Protection gear" were busy working in removing mines three years after cessation of the conflict.This indicates the level of casualties and conflict in the main zonal areas of Sri Lanka's civil war.Army camps were spread at various distances along the highway which otherwise seemed perfectly normal and one of the best highways to drive  a vehicle.As a history buff i had read rheams on the "Second World war" and also the "Indo-Pak Wars"  but never ever had a first hand experience of experiencing the after-effects nor the effects of War.The most i expereinced was Communal riots and terrorism warfare in Mumbai.My father had experienced the after-effects of  the India-Pakistan partition in 1947 when the "B.I.S.N ship(British India Steam Navigation)" he was employed on was diverted to transport refugees between Karachi and Bombay(Mumbai).The tales he told me  were not romantic or chivilrous, just plain fright in the mind of the refugees.In Jaffna i didn't come across any actual victims or former prisoners of the civil war since they were all interned in "Military Camps", far away from the common public.In Jaffna life continued as if the city was just another small town recovering from a calamity.It was while travelling  by this bus in broad daylight that i got an experience of the realities of the civil war.At approx 1435 hrs we reached the "Army Checkpost" for exiting from the former "War Zone Safety Area" with a few soldiers examining the passengers identity cards..A few young soldiers boarded the bus and were later dropped a few kilometers ahead, a normal  lift.I observed that all the soldiers i came across were literally young boys, men just over the adult age of 18 years, never ever coming across a soldier of my age.Imagine the loss to the lives of numerous youth on both sides  during the decades old civil war.Later towards the evening the sky became cloudy and the journey pleasant.We finally reacheed Trincomalee at approx 1730 hrs.

On the small  rotting boat  jetty of Trincomalee harbour.(Tuesday 23-10-2012)

TRINCOMALEE (Monday 22nd to Tuesday 23-10-2012) :-Trincomalee bus-stop is in the main city centre known as "Dockyard Road", a road with the same name exists  in Mumbai's Mazagon locality where i did my Marine Engineering apprenticeship.After alighting from the bus surveyed the area as my immediate priority was purchasing camera batteries. Found a   camera shop in the near vicinity but surprised at the exorbitant cost  of Rs 190 for a pair of "AA Alkaline batteries".As a Solo- backpacker tourist my major tour budget is on food, photography  and entry fees to tourist and historical sights  while i spend the least on lodging..At the camera shop i inquired about the cheapest lodging and the owner directed me to the "Mansion Hotel", the cheapest and most convenient in the city.

"MANSION HOTEL":- Origins of Sri Lanka's Decades old Civil War has its roots in this hotel due to  ethnic violence in this hotel on  3rd June 1983.

En-route to the hotel  was surprised to see a huge chital stag tamely standing in front of a restaurant.Have seen numerous cows and bulls on the roads in India but never ever a deer and hence posed for a photograph , memories for  nostalgia in later years.Later learned that this chital and a small herd were owned and protected by the local Monastry, hence considered sacred."Mansion Hotel" was just opposite the main  vegetable market  situated on "Main Street" and a hotel that was definitely over a century old, built during the British era.Later on researching on the Internet realized that this hotel that now resembled a haunted derelict  mansion was a prime reason for the beginning of the civil war in Sri Lanka on 3rd June 1983.A Sinhala mob had attacked and ransacked this hotel, later burning it as it was owned by Tamilian Sri Lankans .This attack along with other attacks against Tamil origin Sri Lankans in Jaffna  resulted in the decades old civil war .It was basically a restaurant cum bar and the hotel rooms a ancillary business. I was given a room at Rs 600, a one room bed on the first floor of the hotel with the filthiest common toilet i had seen in recent years.As a Solo- Backpacker, the fun is in experiencing various living conditions and ordinary city living  in the places visited. At "Mansion hotel" it was the equivalent of  an experience of spending a night in the filthiest brothel minus a woman or man  but drinking at  the best bar in town! Later after the tour on reaching Mumbai and researching my travel sites , i was surprised to note that i had spent a night in a hotel that was responsible for igniting the flames of Sri Lanka's civil war .After a quick bath in the filthy  common toilet/Bathroom went to the ground floor for a drink in the hotels spacious old-world bar.The walls of this ancient hotel were the equivalent of a historic forts wall in thickness and strength.No wonder it withstood the burning and destruction during the beginning of the Civil War in Sri Lanka and resembles a fortress from the exterior.Ordered a premium  "SRI LANKAN PREMIUM ARRACK" peg  along with soda costing Rs 200, the bar man Charles assisting me in choosing the drink..It was excellent drinking in a heritage run-down hotel and later had a interesting  conversation with two other bar customers."Remember, as a Solo-Backpacker you are never alone!" At approx 1930 hrs,  walked out of the hotel into adjacent "Dockyard Road" and had the best street side Muslim food at "City hotel and restaurant". Cheap and delicious to a non-vegetarian palate. Culinary preparations of Sri Lankan Muslims is different from Mumbai Muslim food, the food having more commonness with Malaysian style of Muslim culinary .After a sumptuous dinner costing Rs 220 made my way back to the hotel and into my dingy room.Luckily there were no mosquito's , besides, the ambient temperature was cool  I had not slept for the last 36 hours since leaving my hotel in Egmore in India  on Sunday morning and hence could sleep the night away in this claustrophobic civil war haunted room. Woke up early on Tuesday at 0500 hrs and after a quick brush and bathe dressed up for a early dawn walk ,only to be delayed by heavy rain.The rain stopped as abruptly as it had started, but the huge main fortress gate of Mansion hotel was locked.A worker opened the gate and out i stepped into the dark early morning.Asked for directions to Fort Frederick and as usual began my solo sightseeing walkathon.Passed by the Trincomalee fish market  , the fish-market being my favourite place of sightseeing in any city, be it First World London or developing World Sri Lanka.The fish catch in this market was bigger than Jaffna and a lot of heckling at the auction.After watching the proceedings for a few minutes went onwards towards Fort Frederick.Came across a herd of deer in a enclosure, the same herd from which the few street roaming deer belonged.Reached the end of  bay of Trincomalee and entered the gate of Fort Frederick.The interior of Fort Frederick was filled with lush green forest and the home of a army regiment of Sri Lanka called the "GAJABA REGIMENT".There were military fortifications inside the fort and huge military bungalows, all in the midst of lush evergreen forests.Proceeded towards Koneswaram rock temple situated on a hill inside Fort Frederick.It was a long up-hill walk to Koneswaram rock temple, a magnificient temple.In India King Rawana is considered the evil monster king who stole  Queen Sita from her husband Ram,but in Sri Lanka he is acclaimed as an astute ruler  despite his evil deeds. In Koneswaram temple a plaque was placed giving a mythological history and connection of King Rawana to this particular temple.Another strange fact about Sri Lankan Hindu's was that Dushera didn't have the festive atmosphere that it has in India, myself never ever hearing fire-crackers or seeing public celebrations either in Jaffna or in Trincomalee.

Koneswaram Temple in Trincomalee.(Tuesday 23-10-2012)

On reaching Koneswaram temple inquired about "Lovers Leap Rock" which was supposed to be in the near vicinity of the temple.As mentioned, language is a severe handicap in Sri Lanka as most of the local population do not speak or understand English language. Honestly, touring Tokyo, Nagasaki and Yokohama during my shipping years was easier that touring Sri Lanka, although both were Buddhist Country's and English language not the common  language .The view of Trincomalee Bay from Koneswaram temple was beautiful and after a brief stop-over i was on my way back when i came across a military officer.Inquired about "Lovers Leap" and surprisingly he himself was ignorant although this particular point is mentioned as a prominent tourist site in travel guide-sites on the Internet.Luckily a rickshaw happened to come our way and the army officer inquired about my tourist site with the  rickshaw driver.The driver then drove me back to the temple and took me on a guided tour of this temple. "Lovers Leap" happened to be at the same spot as the temple monument, situated on the highest point of the cliff with a deep gorge below.After viewing the cliff and the temple finallt returned by rickshaw to Dockyard road.There are a group of three Muslim hotels on Dockyard road serving Malaysian style Muslim food.I had had dinner the previous day at "City hotel & Restaurant" and hence decided to try  breakfast/lunch  at "New Bismillah Hotel" situated adjacent to   Mansion hotel. Breakfast consisted of Noodles/eggs(Rs 150) and a cup of Ceylonese tea. I was back to my hotel by 0730 hrs and after changing clothes and collecting my swimming kit departed to the bus-stop to board the bus to Nilaveli beach.Boarded the bus at 0815 hrs the  ticket costing Rs 30.As the bus made its way around Trincomalee city and harbour realized the strong Catholic presence in this city with manny prominent Catholic educational  Institutions and  churches most prominent being St Mary's  college at Dockyard road, built in 1864. Finally reached Nilaveli beach bus-stop at approx 0900 hrs and  had to walk a further 1 Kms towards the main beach front.Had to pass through the premises of the luxury "Nilaveli Beach Hotel" in order to get access to the main beach.It was the first instance that i got to visualize luxury hotel accommodation in Sri Lanka.The hotel had small cottage suites with a beautiful swimming pool facing the sea beach and a magnificent view of the nature reserve park called "Pigeon Island".Pigeon Island is a small island that was recently declared a Marine national park  and is situated approx 1 Km into the sea opposite Nilaveli beach hotel.Made my way past the hotel resort onto the main beach and felt like i owned this small stretch of white sand beach. At  0915 hrs i was the only swimmer on the beach besides a few life-guards and the ticket booking counter staff for entry into "Pigeon Island' nature park.Went over to the ticket booth counter and inquired about ticket prices and mode of travel to "Pigeon Island".

AT NILAVELI BEACH IN TRINCOMALEE :-  "Pigeon Island" is about 1 Km behind me in the sea.Fibre glass boats are used for  carting tourists to "Pigeon Island".(Tuesday 23-10-2012).A HOLIDAY,TOUR OR BUSINESS TRAVEL IN SRI LANKA IS INCOMPLETE WITHOUT A SEA DIP   IN THIS ISLAND COUNTRY.

                                                                                                                                  The entrance  prices to pigeon island was Rs 2705 per person  and Rs 1700 for hiring a entire boat that could carry a maximum of 7 persons. As a solo-backpacker i was at a definite disadvantage and these are times when the advantages of  travelling in Package Tours" are realized..There were no  group of  other tourists in which i could squeeze myself as a single person.Decided to omit "Pigeon Island' tour from my agenda and instead stripped to my swimming trunks and just had a dip amidst the waves on this beautiful and clean beach.This period of the month is considered off-season for tourists due to the arrival of the North-East  monsoons and hence the sea also a bit rough.Thankfully it was a bright sunny day and hence had an excellent lazy splash in the shallow waters near the coast.Nilaveli is famous for having a safe  levelled beach that stretches for a mile into the water.A group of Mongoloid featured tourists arrived at the beach whom i presumed to be Japanese.On inquiry i learnt that they were a official Chinese Government delegation sent to tour Nilaveli beach. Their interpreter/Guide  was a local Sri Lankan who spoke fluent Chinese.I spoke to one of the Chinese lady's and was surprised at her fluency in English.The Chinese delegation finally left the shores of Nilaveli beach onto Pigeon island, myself, a lonely swimmer  on the entire beach.Finally departed from Nilaveli beach at approx 1015 hrs, a  1 km walk back to the bus-stop in intense sunshine.In Sri Lanka the umbrella serves two purposes, a shelter against rain during the monsoons and a shelter against blistering sunshine in summer.At 10.45 hrs boarded the local crowded bus back to Trincomalee city, the ticket costing  Rs 45.Reached Trincomalee's Dockyard road at approx 1115 hrs and caught a rickshaw to tour the harbour jetty.Trincomalee definitely has one of the World's most beautiful natural harbours and resembles a large calm lake rather than the sea.Strangely, the main boat jetty  was badly maintained and corroded at certain sections, badly in need of replacement.The Oldest British warship H.M.S Trincomalee built in Bombay in 1817 by the Wadia family  is still afloat in 2012, a museum ship at the Dockyard museum in Hartlepool in United Kingdom.During World War -2,after the fall of Singapore, the port of Trincomalee was used as the allied headquaters  of the Eastern Command. After a brief survey of the beautiful harbour made my way back to the hotel.Had a quick shower, changed my clothes and checked out of the infamous "Mansion Hotel".

Rock-Cut Buddhist Temple cave s in Dambulla.

DEPARTURE TRINCOMALEE AND ARRIVAL AT DAMBULLA:- Boarded the 1230 hrs "Trincomalee-Colombo" bus at Trincomalee bus station.The ticket cost to Dambulla was Rs 200 and as usual sat on the front row seat behind the driver, my backpack bag at my feet on the floor.This bus had a flat screen telivision and once the bus departed the station  at 1245 hrs we were entertained to classic local Sinhalese music programmes.It was similar to normal Bollywood musical stage shows except that the main singer was dressed in the National attire of Sri Lanka, the white lungi.The music had a catchy tune and was entertaining to any music lover, irrespective of language, with sexy girls gyrating to the lungi Sinhalese rock star.The journey from Trincomalee to Dambulla was normal  without any army checkposts as we were now in formerly Government controlled territory prior to the civil war.Nearing Dambulla there was a heavy traffic jam due to road repairs.In Sri Lanka the highways are very narrow and hence repairs means the usage of a single lane for both, incoming and outgoing traffic.Thanks to the lungi clad rock-star and the gyrating showgirls the traffic jam was tolerable.We finally reached Dambulla at approx 1630 hrs.Sure the "Lungi Rock star" must have been a house-hold name in Sri Lanka ,but, why was Bollywood entertainment  missing from Sinhalese  public entertainment?

"SUJATHA LODGE" in Dambulla:-A classic  original farmhouse with Japaneese landscaped gardens.

 DAMBULLA (Tuesday 23 - to Wednesday 24-10-2012) :- After alighting from the bus inquired about cheap lodge accomodation.Saw a sign board on the main road advertising "Sujatha Lodge". Entered a lane  on the main road and was amazed to be trnsferred into a village countryside, a mirror reflection of my parents ancestral village's in Mangalore. Wasn't  the classic Hollywood war film "Bridge on the River Kwai" made in Sri Lanka although the actual location of war events was in Thailand ? Life can be funny and bizarre, hence,  akin to human look-alikes  there can also be topographical look-alikes in different country's or regions of the World. On entering "Sujatha Lodge" was surprised at the beauty and neatness of this huge private farm-house. The   lady owner of the house couldn't speak English and so her young daughter conversed regarding the lodge rentals.I was given a single room/attatched bathe for Rs 900, definitely cheap considering that this was the tourist off-season. The owners stayed in the main huge palatial bungalow while the lodge was a small long single storied building built  on the starboard-side of the house.Checked into Room Nos 4, a neat and tidy room without telivision.The owners were Sinhalese Budhists and hence  landscaped their estate in Japanese garden fashion with small water ponds containg fish.The estate also had some exotic trees and a guard dog that was caged and  only released on the huge estate at night.After a quick bathe made my way to the main road  and into "Suman Bake house" situated on Dambulla main road next to the bus-stop.Ate  a Sinhalese  dinner consisting of fish curry rice along with coffee, the bill amounting to Rs 220.The stewardesses working at the restaurant spoke reasonable english as most of them had served overseas in Gulf country's.After  dinner  went back to the lodge and strolled around the village paddy fields situated in the interior of "Sujatha Lodge". away from the main road.Walked into the fields which were not cultivated as yet and also did some bird-watching.Spotted some unique birds which i was unable to identify. The village main road had palatial farmhouses alongside the road with paddy fields on either side of the village road.Met a young farmer named Nadeka who was herding his  prized milch cows and was absolutely friendly although i couldn't speak Sinhalese.Photographed him with his prized  Freisian cow named "Lucky", reminding me of my own prized dachshund  bitch "Lucky".later at about  1715 hrs left the village commune and headed to Dambulla main road and into the city concrete jungle.Inquired about a cybercafe and managed to find "Dasatha Internet cafe" situated near the Main clock tower of Dambulla.The Internet cafe was pathetic and the speed slow and erratic.I could not access manny of my accounts and was under the impression that the Internet in Sri Lanka was heavily censored.After  brief browsing and finally accessing the world famous "FACEBOOK SITE" left the cafe  at approx 1900 hrs and made my way back to the lodge.My cheap  chinese branded torch purchased in Mumbai proved its worth by lighting up the village country-side road as it was pitch dark  and snakes and other reptiles were definitely a threat within the lodge farmhouse let alone the village road.Sleep didn't elude me as i was tired and hence quickly went to bed.woke up at 0500hrs and after a quick bathe dressed and made my way to the main bus stand.At 0545 hrs had a quick breakfast  at a shop near the bus-stop consisting of a local Sri Lankan recipe called "Egg Bun" which is akin to a "Egg hotdog". Boarded the Sigiriya bus at 0600 hrs ,the ticket costing Rs 30 and the journey approx 20 minutes.On reaching Sigiriya was approached by a guide for assistance and also learning that the main ticket counter  opened at 0700 hrs, hence i was early.There are a total of 120 guides employed at "Sigiriya Rock Fortress", the most popular identifiable landmark of Sri Lanka and also having the largest number of tourists on any given day. Sigiriya Fortress is enclosed inside a vast rainforest eco-system, absolute greenery and teeming with mosquitoes, symptoms of a healthy forest system. There were numerous Macaque monkey troops roaming around and i was the first tourist to reach the ticket booking counter situated near a huge lake with lush water vegetation, straight out of a "Indiana Jones Movie" set.I went towards the lakes edge just speechless by this virgin forest beauty only to be repeatedly stung by mosquitoes.Roamed around the vicinity of this dense evergreen  forest with langurs jumping overhead on trees and macaque troops prowling the ground below.I tracked a macaque troop intending to photograph it from a close range when suddenly the Alpha male just a few feet in front of me suddenly turned around, bared its fangs and charged at me.My vintage umbrella saved me from a severe attack for as soon as i pointed the metal tipped umbrella at the monkey it froze in its tracks and retreated.There were a few local park workers and one of them came to my rescue to scare away the monkey.This was the first instance in my entire life that i experienced a wild animal attack  and honestly, the monkey could have seriously injured me.Booked my ticket once the booth opened , the entry fees being Rs 2200 or 15 US $'s for S.A.A.R.C citizens.

Layout Map of "SIGIRIYA COMPLEX".

                  After booking my ticket made my way towards the entrance gate of "Sigiriya  Rock Fortress" the entire fortress surrounded by a moat.The entrance gate had not yet opened and i saw a sign-board indicating directions to the "Piduraya Temple Complex" approx 2 Kms away from Sigiriya fortress gate.My penchant for  mindless-walking made me decide to check out this site before returning back and hiking to the fortress.I was under the impression that the Piduraya Temple Complex was a Buddhist temple situated away from the main Sigiriya Rock fortress.The walk of just 2 Kms seemed never-ending, a circular walk around the moat of the rock fortress onto the opposite side and later a diversion into a forest path ahead.As i walked the lonely road  saw a few people pass me on either cycles , mopeds or motorcycles but never a pedestrian.It was scary, a lone human in a vast dense forest that did have wild elephants in its vicinity, the "Monkey attack" at ticket booking gate making me wonder as to the repercussions of a "Elephant attack". .Finally reached  Piduraya temple complex and climbed up a rock staircase expecting to find a temple ahead. There was a Buddhist monastery adjacent to the rock staircase and soon a monk approched me and requested Rs 200 as fees for climbing up this little fortress on which Piduraya temple was  situated. This rock fortress was an identical copy of the  main Sigiriya rock fortress built by the same dynasty and a poor tourists destination if they couldn't afford the exorbitant entry fees  for the main rock temple.I cursed myself for embarking on this wild-goose chase  and after a few photographs of this complex turned back on the return walk.This was an absolute desolate and isolated place, especially at 0730hrs in the morning, not even a rickshaw  for hire in sight.Slowly trudged my way back to the  Sigiriya rock fortress main gate, having needlessly walked 4 kms.The tourist buses and normal tourist crowd had started arriving by 0800 hrs and i finally entered the main premises of "Sigiriya Rock fortress".There are 4 entrances to Sigiriya Rock Fortress-North-South-East and West.The tourist entrance is from the West end side.

"Sigiriya rock Fortress " as seen from the main road.(Wednesday 24-10-2012)

A group of Dutch tourists were ahead of me along with their local guides.Thanks to eavesdropping on  the guides explanation to the Dutch tourists  that i understood various structures and complexes situated within the ruins of this fortress.Most important of all, the unpredictable monsoon weather of Sri Lanka was in our favour and although a cloudy cool day, rainfall eluded us.As we climbed various marbled steps leading to the summit , realized the historical importance of this monument in Sri Lankan history.There were sign boards in English explaining various ruins of importance and the garden assembly.we finally reached the "Mirror Face wall' of the rock fortress and the climb was through metallic staircase.The few paintings inside the fortress cave were well preserved and i managed to photograph the same.

Paintings(Fresc's) inside Sigiriya Fortress caves.Similar to Ajanta Caves in India.

SIGRIYA  FORT COMPLEX :- Built by King Kashyapa(477-495 A.D).Throne of the rulers at the summit of Sigiriya Rock fortress.

After passing through the steel framed staircases situated on the face of this rock we finally reached a table-land on which the World-famous lions paw was carved.The Paw is in good condition but the surrounding brickwok had fallen off, the same requiring re-plastering by the archaelogical department.Whenever Sri Lanka is shown on telivision or documentaries, the Sigiriya Rock fortress and its lion paws are always a part of the feature, the symbol of this small Country. Finally at approx 0900 hrs after viewing the Lions paw we walked up the stairs to the summit, just a flat small plateau, ruins of a former palace built by King Kashyapa(477-495 A.D).

Author at the "LION CLAW" of Sigiriya Rock Fortress.Notice the brickwork that encases the sides of this paw.

As it was a cloudy day there was occasional mist and hence the birds eye view from the summit was not always clear.Yet, the carpet of evergreen forests  at the base of this small rock fortress was distinctly visible, a soothing balm to fatigued tourists.At the summit the Dutch guide and the tour manager were busy explaining details of the ruined fort.I picked up a conversation with the tour manager Mr Nihal.Ellegala, a local Sri Lankan married to a Dutch woman  who spoke fluent dutch as well as  English. He and his assistant, the English guide Mr Sameer worked for a Tour company that catered to foreign tourists, mostly from Holland.He complained of excessive leeches in Sri Lankan forests during the rains as his resort "Polwaththa Eco- Lodges" conducted numerous eco - tours in the forests.After a short stay at the summit we began our  descent to the base of the fortress reaching ground at approx 0930 hrs, definitely not a strenuous hike to the summit and back.Made my way towards the Sigiriya museum situated near the ticket booking counter.Entrance to the Fortress was from West  end  side while the exit was at another end, a very long distance from the ticket booth.Walking along the lonely forested pathway  at approx 0945 hrs suddenly saw a monitor lizard come onto the road from the road gutter-way.I slowly approached it with my camera and surprised that the lizard seemed unafraid of me. It walked along slowly ahead of me like a pet and i was busy photographying it. It finally went into the road-side  water gutter and into a pipe, providing me with wonderfull photo-shoots.It was the first time that i had seen a wild Monitor lizard.

This giant monitor lizard at Sigiriya National Park entering its underworld home."Gutter water" is rain drainage and not filthy  waste polluted water.

 After the Monitor lizard disappeared into the gutter pipe i made my way towards the museum. On reaching the museum i realized that i had forgotten my umbrella somewhere, most probably while photographing the monitor lizard. Hoped to find it on my return walk to the bus-stop.After brief viewing of the small museum walked back to the bus-stop, searching for my umbrella and not finding it.It was a excellent complimentary umbrella that i had received from "Drew Ameroid Company"  during a shipping seminar function in Mumbai.At the bus stand i purchased a folding umbrella(Rs 380) as an umbrella was as important as carrying one's wallet during the unpredictable monsoon season in Sri Lanka.At 1045 hrs boarded the bus to Dambulla on my journey to the "Dambulla Buddhist caves".The bus passed by Sujatha lodge and further down the road  pastDambulla clock-tower ,finally terminating at the local Dambulla bus stand. It was a short walk from here to the "Golden Temple of Dambulla". .Lunch was at Aluvihare hotel situated near the temple. Ordered for fish curry and bread costing Rs 150. Sri Lankan local bread which is fluffy and soft  has an excellent and different unique taste akin to Mumbai's famous local "Broon bread".After lunch made my way towards the temple , the entrance fees being Rs 1300. I had to walk a flight of rock-cut steps to reach the "Rock temple".From the exterior the cave entrances seemed small but on entering each cave chamber the rooms were large and massive.These rock cave temples had been in continuous use since the last 22 centuries beginning in 3rd century B.C. The walls and ceilings had paintings, each cave filled with statues of Buddha in various meditative postures.Photography was allowed.

Entrance to Rock cut temple and Golden temple of Dambulla.

After   finishing  sightseeing  of  the caves left the premises of the "Golden Temple"  at 1300 hrs  and  boarded a bus back to "Sujatha Lodge".Before departure from the lodge at 1400 hrs had a conversation with the owners young collegian daughter  Miss Ruvini.Nimasha.Gunawardana and surprised to note that she represented Sri Lanka in an Inter-College swimming competition held in Bangalore in 2011.We bacame friends on Facebook, the International social website.Walked to the local bus-stop on the main street and boarded a common bus  "Nos 41" to Kandy, the ticket costing  Rs 92.The distance from Dambulla to Kandy situated at an altitude of 465 meters(1526 feet)  is approx 70 Kms  but the bus journey was slow.The bus was crowded and there was no seating accomodation and hence had to stand upto Matala  before getting seating accomodation .Finally reached kandy Bus-stand at approx 1630 hrs.

SHRINE OF TEMPLE OF SACRED TOOTH.

                                                                                                                                                                     KANDY (Wednesday 24th to Thursday 25-10-2012):-Approached a local rickshaw driver for accomodation and he drove me to various lodges finally settling for "The Hotel" for Rs 1000/day situated on a small elevated hill at Nagasthenna road.Kandy was a big city with narrow roads and concrete buildings, although no skyscrapers.Inquired about the " Kandy Cultural show" , a popular itinerary on package tours with the proprietor of the hotel.Luckily the show was to begin at 1730 hrs and so i kept the rickshaw on hold, had a quick bathe and changed to formal wear from "Hippy Style".it was a short ride to the "Y.M.B.A" hall at Talatuoya road, although confusing to me.The hall was partly full with tourists the entrance fee being Rs 500.After paying the rickshaw driver a total of rs 200  made my way into the small hall.The show started at approx 1740 hrs and was an excellent display of  cultural  folk dances and pantomime.The hall was packed to capacity, a definite must visit cultural event for any tourist to Sri Lanka.The show ended at  approx 1830 hrs and it was a dar night outside, hence finding my way back to the hotel would be an adventure in itself.as mentioned earlier, i was more at home in distant Buddhist Japan than in Buddhist Sri Lanka, India's southern neighbour, although both country's citizens were poor in speaking english language.Manny times i was misguided but thanks to the experience of  years of solo travel at shipping ports  managed to sense the mischief and re-confirmed for a second opinion with another local Sri Lankan..Walking along spotted the Kandy railway station and entered this clean and well maintained station.In Kandy the weather was warm although it was situated at a slight elevation and thankfully, rainless.After admiring  this beautiful small railway station made my way towards a local  hotel to inquire about my residence "THE HOTEL"! At this hotel the cashier fortunately spoke english and on showing him the hotels visiting card  guided me in the right direction.I noticed fresh "aapams(rice roti's)" in his hotel and decided to have dinner.Dinner was excellent "Chicken curry/aapams", aapams being a very common form of roti in Sri Lankan culinary preperations.After a relishing dinner finally made the right path to "THE HOTEL".As usual there was no telivision in the room but it was clean and comfortable without mosquito's.Wednesday(24-10-2012) proved to be the most hectic day of my entire tour.Trekked  two small hills walking approx 10 kms and later travelling to Kandy and watching a cultural concert, all in a single day.Still,a good nights sleep eluded me.

Cultural Show at Kandy.A must visit for tourists.

Woke up at 0500 hrs as usual on thursday morning and after a quick bathe made my way out of the lodge and down the hill to the nearest tea-shop open at 0600 hrs in the morning.There was a  large Buddhist Stupa and a statue of Buddha in the meditating posture sealed in glass on the opposite side of the road to "THE HOTEL".Akin to  religious statues of various gods in India, the same was true of Kandy, only difference, the staues of Lord Buddha was the only dominant  statue at almost every street corner. I had visited Japanese city's on numerous occasions but never ever noticed Buddhist Stupa's as commonly as in Sri Lanka.As a solo- backpacker i always memorize important landmarks to later find my way back to the hotel or place of residence.After a breakfast consisting of  classic Ceylonese sweet bread and tea costing Rs 60 at the small teashop situated near a playground  i made my way back to the lodge.Left the hotel at 0700 hrs and made my way to the local bus-stop just down the street on the main road.Boarded a bus to Peradeniya Botanic gardens, the ticket costing Rs 24 .Reached the garden main-gate at approx 0715 hrs, much earliar then the opening time of 0730 hrs.Saw a beautiful couple dressed in Sinhalese wedding attire along with the complete entourage of the wedding fraternity including the photographers, the bride decked with heavy jewellery which seemed to be gold.Such scenes are common in Singapore among Chinese newly wedded couples who love taking their wedding photos  at the Jurong bird park. I presumed this couple to be billionaires of  Sri Lanka seeing the bridal jewellery  and lavish wedding attire,. Later on inquiring with a local i was told that the jewellery was artificial gold and that taking photos at Peradeniya Gardens was a common affair amongst the Sinhalese.

Yuri.Gagarin planted this tree in Peradeniya Botanic garden.A living monument of Nature.

The garden gates opened at 0730 hrs the tickets costing Rs 1100/person.A brochure guide to the gardens was handed at the ticket counter and thanks to the same could self-guide myself through this beautiful, large and historic garden.Strolled through the vast expanse of different plants and herbal gardens fascinated at seeing the cluster of giant bamboo's.The guided map was excellent and hence i could find my way through this huge garden, also identifying various trees and plant species although having an almost below average knowledge of the subject of Botany. I also saw the maximum number of flying foxes in this garden, a huge cluster of them on various trees at a certain location near the lake of the garden.Spotted a large monitor lizard gliding into the lake and swimming away from me,  large enough to be mistaken for a crocodile.The Mahaweli river that flows through Kandy city forms  the boundary for  one end of this 147 acres(59 Hectares) garden. The Mahaweli is the largest  and only perennial river in Sri Lanka that has its mouth close to the city of  Trincomalee.At one end of the garden there is a long thin suspension bridge across the Mahaweli river which can be used by tourists to walk half-way through  to experience swing frequency of this unique bridge.Only a few people can walk on the bridge at a given time for the purpose of safety.As i strolled through the garden came across the bridal couple and their entourage, posing for photos and video-camera's ,akin to a film shooting.I have visited the Kew gardens in London and the Botanical gardens in Ooty(India) and surely the Royal Botanic gardens of Peradeniya modelled on the Kew gardens is one of the best aqmong gardens.A unique  place in the gardens was the  trees planted by World leaders and celibrities on their visit to the city of Kandy.Among Indians ,saw the tree planed by the first Indian President  of India, Dr Rajendra.Prasad. Also saw a huge tree that was planted by the last Czar of Russia.,Czar Nicholas, unique natural monuments , also beneficial to the natural environment.Finally departed from the garden at approx 0910 hrs, boarding a bus to Kandy city.Alighted the bus near Kandy lake and inquired for directions to Sri Lanka's most holy site, the  Sri Dalada Maligawa  also called Temple of Sacred tooth relic in English. It was 0945 hrs and as i passed  through the busy bustling main commercial street of Kandy came across the "Kandyan Muslim Hotel", a  hotel over 100 years old and owned by muslims of Tamilian descent from Madras. .Ordered a "Fish Kottu", hearing the name for the first time, always experimenting with  new recipe's. The dish costing Rs 325 was actually meant for 2 persons and honestly, it was not to the liking of my taste buds.Finished the dish as i hate food wastage, the waiter requesting me for Indian coins as a souvenir.After my stomach filling "Fish Kottu" breakfast/lunch  made my way towards the "Temple of the Tooth relic" situated in the premises of the former kings palace .Entrance fee to the "Temple of the sacred tooth" was Rs 500 and there were a lot of tourists amongst the congregation of Buddhists devotees.Had to enter the temple barefooted as is the custom in all temples in most religions an exception being in Christianity's religious sites.This was the first instance that i had visited a Buddhist sacred temple and was surprised to note that photography was allowed inside the temple.The sacred tooth relic is kept in a special room that is inaccessible to the devotees and tourists, Buddhist priests excepting offerings at the entrance gate.

Sri Dalada Maligawa or Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy.

                                                                                                                                 Photography of the "Sacred tooth Relic" chamber is not allowed After completing my visit o departed from the temple and made my way towards Kandy lake.Boat rides were conducted in the lake, the lake water reasonably clean.It was a hot and sunny day, the weather very much in favour of  my tour itinerary, although blazing hot sunshine.Wandered through the main town centre of Kandy, a city with posh buildings ,shopping centres and eateries.Realized that the Hindi film industry existed in Sri Lanka when i came across a Bollywood English magazine in a posh bookstore. Otherwise, barring copy-cat tunes of  some Hindi and English films in either Tamil or Sinhalese music never ever heard a Hindi or English song upto my arrival in Kandy.visited a cybercafe and browsed  for half an hour, sad to read the demise of satirical television actor/ producer Mr Jaspal.Bhatti in India.I loved his very contemporary satirical plays on current topics about India and the average Indian, hilarious and thought provoking.Quenched my thirst with two tender coconuts costing Rs 40 each and after jay walking a bit finally at approx 1215 hrs decided to go back to my lodge. Walked all the way to my lodge as i had memorized my bearings, the Kandy railway station and the Buddha Stupa being the main landmarks en-route to my lodge.On reaching the hotel had a quick shower and after packing my luggage  got set for my next rendezvous, Nuwara Eliya.The owner of  the hotel forwarded me a lodge address in Nuwara Eliya also contacting the proprietor on phone.I spoke to the proprietor  of "Hill View Bungalow" and he agreed to lodge me at Rs 1000/day. As mentioned, i was travelling in a total tourist off-season, besides, the entire World including myself were in a deep economic depression, hence accommodation seemed comparatively cheap in Sri lanka.The main city bus terminus of Kandy is next to the railway station. Boarded bus nos 47 to Kandy which departed at approx 1345 hrs, the ticket fare being Rs 110.The scenery  during the ascent to Nuwara Eliya situated at an altitude of 1800 meters(5960 feet)  was a pleasant sight to the eyes as was the abrupt change in ambient temperature.The change of topography within a few hours of travel  from  rice fields  in the plains od Dambulla  to  tea-plantations on hills was amazing.Entire hills were totally cultivated with tea plants with the name "Macwoods Labookellie" seeming to colonize all the tea plantations on the  approach  road to Nuwara Eliya.Reached Nuwara Eliya main bus terminus at approx 1715 hrs, a beautiful small town akin to an English village and hence nicknamed "Little England"..On alighting the bus approached a shop and rang up Mr Rajith.Karunadasa, proprietor  of "Hill View Bungalow". He told me to wait  near the Post -office from where he would pick me up in a vehicle.The " Main Post-Office"  building was a classic cottage situated on a elevation and i decided to purchase a few stamps being a stamp collector since school days.After purchasing the stamps waited on the footpath of the main road, definitely the odd visible tourist with my half beard and bald head.After approx 15 minutes a rickshaw driver approached me and told me that a car was waiting a distance ahead.Went over to the station wagon and introduced myself to Mr Rajith after which we drove over to his residence,uphill along a winding road.Finally reached "Hill View Bungalow" which was actually a private residence converted into a tourist bungalow.Mrs Karunadasa showed me my room  named "Carnation", a small room slightly larger than my house gallery in Mumbai . A  young French couple were residing in the next room called "Orchid".The entire  beautifully furnished house along with a large screen telivision and  geyser water bathroom was for  our use, excellent It was akin to living in a private bungalow..The only drawback of this self-contained Bungalow was that it was situated almost 1.5 Kms away from the main town with no shops or restaurants in its vicinity and hence inconvenient for elderly tourists on a budget tour.This Bungalow as also other Bungalows in the vicinity were  constructed at the base of Sri Lanka's highest mountain, Mount Piduruthalagala(2524 meters or 8,281 ft) formerly called Mount Pedro. After a hot water bathe changed my attire into "Winter Clothing" as it was chillingly cold minus snowfall! The floor of the bungalow was chillingly cold, akin to walking on ice!Thanks to the cold climate, my days of fatigue travel vanished and i fell refreshed in the cold mountain temperatures.Having visited  South India's most popular hill-station Ooty  numerous times found the climatic similarities to Nuwara Eliya were similar to Ooty as also the vegetation, tree plantations.Ventured out of the Bungalow  for a walk to survey  our bungalow lodge locality and met a local  Mr Edward.Andrews who worked at the posh 3-star  "St Andrews hotel " in Nuwara Eliya.We had a brief talk and he explained me some of the famous tourist sites of Nuwara Eliya.It was dark and chillingly cold.There was another Bungalow style hotel close to our Bungalow and seems most local residents have converted part of their residences into tourist lodges.Later went back to "Hill view Bungalow" and watched a bit of television, the first time that i got a glimpse of Sri Lankan television.Akin to Mumbai the owners had a paid channel service with a few Hindi movie channels and Al-Jazera  and C.N.N being the popular English news channels.Watched a bit of "  T-20 Cricket" on the Star  cricket channel, an interesting play being the "T-20 Champions Trophy" in South Africa.A relative of the owner, a young man  helped in serving dinner to the French couple on the large dining table in the hall.After briefly watching television made my way to the bedroom.The chilling cold made the small room comfortable and was awakened at approx 0445 hrs by the call of the Muezzin for prayers at the local mosque.I realized it was "Bakri-Idd" and for the first time heard  the call of the Muezzin  from a mosque in Sri Lanka.Woke up, brushed and changed, hoping to explore the nearby forests before sun-rise.On trying to open the main gate of the hall i realized that it was locked from outside by the owners, a precaution against robbery.Spent my time browsing through the television channels until the Mr Rajith arrived and opened the gate.Made my way  across the narrow hill road and had to meander my way down-hill, akin to walking across a tea-estate in order to take the shortest route to town, rather than the 1.5 km road-way.Passed by " St Andrews hotel", the road also named St Andrews road and came across Nuwara Eliya golf-course. Saw  three pony's eating from a garbage bin, definitely discards from the Nuwara Eliya race-course. It was a straight road to town later passing St Francis Xavier Church, a statue of St francis situated at the road junction.As it was early morning the entire town was closed barring the odd tea-shop where i had a cup of tea.Breakfast was at Sapphire hotel, a typical Muslim dhabba hotel.Breakfast consisted of Parathas/eggs and tea, the total cost amounting to Rs 125.After breakfast made my way back to the Bungalow  by 0715 hrs , en-route visiting the golf-course.After changing my  clothes made my way to the main bus terminus and at approx 0815 hrs boarded the bus to "Gregory Lake Park". On the way to Gregory lake passed by the Nuwara Eliya race-course, a very badly maintained race-course, a few pony's grazing in the bare grounds of the race-course.Gregory lake is just a short distance by bus from Nuwara Eliya bus depot and the entrance ticket to the lake park was Rs 100.Strolled around the garden built alongside this clean, well maintained lake.Boat rides were on offer and a magnificent boat-house was anchored along the garden wharf.After a brief walk around the garden boarded a bus to "Sita Amman Temple", a famous pilgrimage  temple in Nuwara Eliya.Alighted the bus at Sita temple and then walked further towards "Hakgala Gardens" thinking it was in close proximity to Sita temple.The walk was endless and on my legs aching decided to catch a rickshawat(tuktuk) costing  rs 50   to the garden.To my idiocy realized that i had almost reached the garden before catching the Tuktuk  According to folklore the Sri Lankan Demon king Ravana kept Sita as a prisoner in the  "Hakgala Gardens"  after abducting her  and is mentioned in the "Ramayana" as "Ashok Vatika". Hence the "Sita Amman" temple was built which is approx 1 km from Hakgala gardens.The entrance fee to the garden was Rs 1200 and this deterred me since i had already visited the "Peradeniya botanic garden" in Kandy.Besides, i had to preserve my legs for the rest of the hectic tour. At approx 0930 hrs boarded  a bus for the return journey to Nuwara Eliya bus depot , a total distance of approx 16 kms costing Rs 30.

At "Mackwoods Labookelie Tea Centre" in Nuwara  Eliya.The weather had suddenly turned   warm from chillingly cold in the morning..Hence in my "Basket-ball" t-shirt in a hill-station.Bizarre weather.

                                                                                                                                                                The weather had turned warm and i decided to remove my sweater, bizarrely clad in just a basketball pumas shirt.Reached the bus depot at approx 1000 hrs and later boarded a mini-bus to visit the "Mackwoods Labookellie Tea Centre", the second oldest mercantile firm in Sri Lanka , founded in 1841 by Captain William.Mackwood. The bus ticket cost Rs 50 and  the bus departed at approx 1010 hrs, a long and winding road down the mountain through lush green tree plantations.On arriving at the tea factory gate we were told to request for the guide to explain us the entire tea manufacturing process.A german couple along with two other Asians and myself were escorted by a young Sri Lankan lady guide named Shiroma. This was the first time that i  had ever visited a tea factory although had visited the tea hill-station of  Ooty in India on a few  occasions.
   I became a student and was fascinated by the factory and the tea processing conveyor system, part human labour and part mechanization.After completion of the tour we were given a free cup of "Mackwoods Fine tea", the company being the second largest tea producer in Sri Lanka.The factory was located  at a exotic location with a breathtaking view of tea-estates  and a gushing water-fall below.Boarded a bus at the factory gate back to Nuwara bus depot, the ticket costing Rs 30.Bargaining is the essential secret of a backpackers tour in Sri Lanka and i was surprised at the astute thriftiness of the German couple from Munich who travelled with me to the tea factory and back.At the start ,the conductor wanted to charge me Rs 100 but thanks to the German couple the price was reduced to Rs 50, the return journey being still cheaper at Rs 30! Most First World country tourists are professional backpackers  with "Lonely Planet" being  their travel  bible.They  spend half the year travelling various country's and have a strong "Backpackers social network" and  hence veterans in seeking bargain offers and definitely difficult to fleece by a few locals.I could be added to the tribe of "World Backpackers" having toured almost 26% of the globe.Arrived at Nuwara bus depot at approx 1215 hrs and made my way towards Victoria Park, a normal garden situated in the main town centre.Entrance to the park for foreigners was Rs 200 and that made me decide to instead spend the money on lunch.had walked kilometers of garden routes in this short tour, my legs refusing any more idle walk.I personally feel that the Sri Lankan Government is in a hurry to make up for lost tourist time due to the decades old civil war and hence exorbitant charges for foreigners at all public gardens or tourist sites. "Victoria Hotel" was situated inside the garden premises just before the entrance gate, a pleasant location with beautiful English F.M music playing on the radio.This was the first time that i ever heard "F.M English Music" after leaving home in Mumbai.Most people of my generation and older would definitely remember the evergreen English and Hindi music channel, "RADIO CEYLON".Today with the arrival of "F.M " music channels in every city in India, the importance of "RADIO CEYLON" has diminished. "Radio Ceylon" is the oldest radio broadcasting station in Asia having started service in 1923.When Edmund.Hillary and Sherpa .Tenzing climbed the summit of Mount Everest and later tuned to the radio, the first broadcasting station their radio frequency picked was none other than the evergreen "RADIO CEYLON". "RADIO CEYLON" has been the country's most famous and largest brand ambassador.Ordered a fancy  fish fried rice  dish that was excellent in the open-air garden restaurant, The steward showed me the peak of Mount Piduruthalagala(Mount Pedro), clearly visible from the hotel with binoculars. Sri Lankan T.V Rupavahani and a big radar station have been built at the peak, the same manned by the armed forces.Special permission is required to trek to the peak of this highest mountain in Sri Lanka.The stomach filling delicious lunch cost Rs 350, the best Westernized restaurant i had eaten in during my tour.Made my way through the town, typical "Little England' with small shops and buildings.About 1330 hrs,as i passed aimlessly past a Bata store shoe shop   happened to notice the sign "SPORTING TIMES" with a racing horse as its logo.I had quit gambling on horses in Mumbai,a failed business venture  after over two decades of punting at the Mahalaxmi race-course in Mumbai.Just out of curiosity i decided to visit the bookie shop situated on the first floor of the Bata shop building.

Selling fish in a mobile van in  Nuwara Eliya  brought from coastal Negombo  city.

                                                                                               On climbing the stairs and entering the "SPORTING TIMES" shop was astounded by the t.v channels showing various forms of betting, from horse racing to Greyhound racing.To my utter surprise, Sri Lanka seemed to be a gamblers paradise with betting legalized in all sports and the betting tax being a mere 5% compared to the unbelievable 26% tax paid on horse-racing in India.In the morning hours  there was live broadcasting of  horse races and greyhound races in Australia and England while  at  night it was South Africa and England in keeping with the "Time Zones".The betting shops opened at 0800 hrs and closed past mid-night ,depending on the sports played.The "Champions cup T-20" cricket was being played in South Africa and i wagered Rs 2000  on the "Titans"  in the  semi-finals between "Titans V/s Sydney Sixers". I could watch the match live at the Bungalow, besides, if my team won then i could collect the winnings at any "Sporting times" betting shop in Sri Lanka, Colombo being the main betting city.It started raining heavily while inside the Bookie shop and after educating myself on Sri Lankan betting  finally departed once the rains stopped.According to me, the best free entertainment in Sri Lanka is watching live  races or sports in any of the numerous betting shops.The weather was turning colder and i put on my sweater and strolled through the bustling town.Visited the St Francis Xavier Church at 1700 hrs, the church full with congregation of worshipers.Made my way back to the Bungalow  and on the way saw  the largest Tuna being cut and sold in a mobile fish selling van.On reaching "Hill View Bungalow" had the hottest bath in my life, almost scalding myself as the temperature control of the geyser was a bit erratic.Nothing like the hottest bath after miles of walking and trekking.Relaxed  in my room, later having a night walk in the dark countryside street outside the Bungalow.The French couple had gone to Ella for a trip and hence were absent in the night. Spent part of the night and early morning  watching the 'Titans V/s Sydney Sixers" on the big screen television.It was  one of the most exciting cricket matches i watched, my team Titans losing the game in the last ball of the match!
Woke up early  on Saturday(27-10-2012) and as usual  after a bathe got ready for my next backpacker journey by train to Ella.Mrs Karunadasa opened the main gate door and after thanking her and paying the hotel charges of Rs 2000 headed towards Nuwara Eliya town at 0600 hrs approx..

Diesel  "TOY TRAIN" ride in "Third Class" from Nanu Oye to Ella through scenic Tea-highlands.(Saturday 27-10-2012)

At "Pattipola Station", the highest elevated station in Sri Lanka.(Saturday 27-10-2012)

Journey from Nuwara Eliya to Ella(Saturday 27-10-2012):- Trekked down to the city and had tea at Pearl Star hotel situated just opposite the "Sporting Times" bookie shop.Boarded the 715/5 nos bus  at Nuwara Eliya bus terminus  to Nanu  Oye station at approx 0645 hrs, a long drive of approx 9 kms  through bad and narrow roads.This part of the tea-estate country had more of "Pedro Plantation" signboards, another big tea growing and manufacturing company in the Country. Nanu Oye is a small hill -station with a few shops and i had my first pure Tamil origin vegetarian breakfast at a restaurant near this station.At approx 0800 hrs having reached the station very early entered a typical small village restaurant managed by a lady.Ate the most delicious dosa/chutney, identical to my mothers preparations at home, she being an excellent cook in idli's and Dosa chutneys, something i really miss after her demise.The similarity between Mangalorean villages of my youth and  some parts of Sri Lanka in 2012 were bizarrely similar, just a matter of different cultures, languages and country.There were numerous  instances when i spoke in the local  Manglorean language of Kannada to local Sri Lankans, themselves baffled and myself realizing the mistaken identity syndrome.The rail ticket booking counter opened at 0845 hrs and for the first time in my life i booked a "3rd CLASS TICKET"  costing Rs 60 , that being the only ticket available.Sri Lanka was in the midst of a 4 day holiday week-end that began on Dushera day on Friday(26-10-2012) and would continue upto the Buddhist religious holiday of "Full Moon day(Poya Day)" on Monday(29-10-2012).A Australian couple were also in the queue to book the train tickets and as usual a conversation evolved.They were a live-in couple , the lady an Italian by origin and hence  got to know interesting facts about Australia.They travel the World on their holidays and he although a qualified professional  worked as a "Fruit Picker"!Seems manual labour pays better in Australia, besides he liked it compared to a formal city job. Imagine a "Fruit Picker" in India having the monetary resources to travel abroad let alone tour the globe!He was sad about the poverty prevalent in Sri Lanka, never having visited India  and was honest to admit that he was lucky to be born in Australia which doesn't have poverty.The Australian Welfare system provided by the Government caters to the unemployed of the Country, hence no poverty as we see it in the developing  World .Travel educates as you interact with people from different nationalities and Country's.The train was late and finally arrived  at 1030 hrs. The Small  train had five oil carriages, two mail carriages and only two passenger bogies, hence only "3rd Class" was available. The Claustrophobic "Third Class Journey"  was in  no way romantic   to the classic  Hindi  film   song "Chaiya Chaiya" from the movie "Dil Se"  filmed in an   identical tea-estate scenery  in Ooty in India .The movie starring actors Shahrukh.Khan and Manisha.Koirala featured the song "Chaiya Chaiya" with actor Shahrukh.Khan singing on top of a hill-station train  during a journey through the scenic tea-estates of Ooty in India. The two bogies were packed to the hilt with commuters, the boggies being small, typical of a hill-station toy train.As mentioned, it was a rare 4-day week end holiday in entire Sri Lanka. Hence most of the tea estate workers must have been heading for holidays, etc, the poor man's mode of transport, hence the cheapest being "3rd Class". Wonder if the Australian Couple made it into this train since they were not in my compartment and if they had, would like to hear their account of this train journey.Passengers were squatted on the narrow train compartment floor and thankfully i managed to at least keep my backpack ruck on the train floor near a lady squatting on the floor.These were the poorest citizens of Sri Lanka, hence the "Third Class Travel" travel compartment. Later towards the end of my tour in Colombo city i reasoned  some of the reasons for the civil war in Sri Lanka.The train left Nanu Oye station at 1030 hrs, packed to the floor space with passengers squatting on the floor. I managed to make my way towards the exit and squatted on the foot-board, something i never did even in the prime of my youth!Luckily there was no rain and the weather cool, hence no heat congestion, just overcrowding.As the train made its slow journey i realized the reasons every traveler recommends a train journey through Sri Lanka's hill country,although definitely not in "Third Class" as i did..and their kids.At a certain station we happened to be parallel to the  "Badulla-Colombo Train" travelling in the opposite direction to Colombo Fort station.Observed a A/C Compartment in this train named  "Rajdani Express"  ,occupied mostly with Caucasian tourists and realized that it was this class of tourists that recommended the hill train journey through Sri Lanka's tea-estates and hills.This train also had a "Second Class" compartment, absolutely crowded with the holiday crowd.  The views and scenery was  indescribable as the train made  its slow journey past hills of tea-estates and forests.At 1100 hrs reached Ambewela station and at 1115 hrs, the highest train station in Sri Lanka, Pattipola. The train slowly passed by numerous stations and tunnels, excellent weather balancing the jam packed toy train.Saw patches of burnt forest alongside the railway tracks, hoping it wasn't arson fire.At about 1145 hrs we experienced dense fog conditions near Idalganshinna station with visibility reduced to a few meters. At approx 1345 hrs our train finally chugged slowly into Ella train station.There were a few tourists sitting at the railway station as walking along the railtracks is another favourite outdoors activity amongst trekkers.

"RAVANA FALLS" in Ella situated in the "Ravana Ella National Park".A popualr tourist site in Sri Lanka.(Saturday 27-10-2012)

ELLA( Saturday 27-10-2012):- Alighting out of the train just walked down the common narrow road outside the station along with a few other tourists, the ultimate 21st century "Hippy backpacker"! Suddenly just after walking a few minutes down the path came across a country house with a man chopping wood and a woman  indulging in some house-hold chores.As i passed by the woman asked me if i required accommodation to which  i replied in the affirmative. After a little bargaining which i learnt from the German backpacker couple we agreed to a rental of Rs 700/day as i would be leaving early next morning.This young  couple along with their two small sons   must have just begun building a bungalow on their ancestral land, supplementing their income by renting to the occasional budget  backpacker.The room was big and spacious with a mosquito net, the house estate, typical  country  village  with a banana plantation alongside the house..They were Sinhalese Buddhists and for the first time i got to taste the normal vegetarian Sinhalese home  food as they offered me lunch.Lunch was rice, dal and  jackfruit vegetable, not pungent like the restaurant food of fish curry/rice.The name of the owner was P.Sanjeevani and the  address of this country village home  was No 22., Railway station road, Ella.Never before in my life had i switched accommodations in different regions in a foreign country in such short stay periods, besides, the type of accommodation and living conditions differing considerably  . On guided  package tours you are shifted to a normal uniform grade of hotels , hence get accustomed to the living conditions.As for me, from Trincomalee to Ella, it was a roller-coaster ride in buses, a  train as well as accommodation stay, the ultimate adventures in living the true backpackers life.After lunch i took some travel advice from the house lady owner and began my sightseeing tour of Ella.Ella was the place in Sri Lanka that had the country's largest waterfall, a wild-life park  and a temple dedicated to the Demon King Ravana.As an Indian, although a catholic by religion i was inquisitive to study the difference in adoration of the demon King Ravana between the Hindu community of the two country's.Honestly, i was amazed and also confused although i had read the condensed form of the "Ramayana".

"RAVANA TEMPLE" located on a small cliff in Ella.The pathway by tuktuk to this temple was one of the most dangerous drives in my life.(Saturday 27-10-2012)

Walking down the road i met a young man , a hairdresser named Amit who offered to get me a rickshaw(tuktuk) on hire for sightseeing.He rang up a number and soon enough a rickshaw arrived, the charges being Rs 1000 for a complete sightseeing tour.We first drove to "Little Adams Peak", named after the famous holy mountain of Sri Lanka called "Adams peak". It was named Little Adams peak due to its similarity in shape to Adams peak.The tuktuk driver stopped at the base of the gradient  to the peak, giving me an one and a half hours time frame to visit the peak and return back, schedule of a private backpackers package tour.

"ELLA VIEW" from "LITTLE ADAMS PEAK.(Saturday 27-10-2012).

                                                                                                                                                                The climb to the peak of the hill was in bright sunshine and through scenic tea plantations.It took me about 20 minutes to reach the peak,first a climb through a  narrow pathway and finally steps to the peak.There were two peaks  separated by a simple walk down a small path. A few tourists were on the other peak while i surveyed the mountain scenery from the peak i had climbed.The view from the top was breathtaking as usual, a bright clear horizon with a great view of Ella peak, the highest mountain in Ella.Later walked over to the other peak where a few stones were plied and a small flag placed on the ground. On inquiry with a Sinhalese couple learned that this site on Little Adam's peak was a religious place of worship. With my binoculars spotted a helipad in the middle of the tea-estate below, also an exotic hill-cottage hotel in the distance, both luxuries in the tea country of Sri Lanka.made my way back to the tuktuk rendezvous at 1600 hrs to be met by a different tuktuk driver, a change of driver/guide.Driver/proprietor of "Manjula Tuktuk" handed me his visiting card, a professional tuktuk guide of Ella.We drove past Ella view point where thanks to the bright day , the distant sea-coast was visible through binoculars.He showed me a tree with the largest bee-hives i ever saw in my life, the ultimate danger in the wilderness. Imagine these bees attacking an unwary tourist or adventurer.We drove through the "Ravana Ella Wild-life" sanctuary teeming with monkeys and finally onto the main attraction of Ella, the "Ravana waterfalls".This is a perenial monsoon waterfall , although the water flow reduces in peak summer.The holiday and tourist crowd were in large numbers, some bathing at the base of this majestic waterfalls, others just enjoying the gushing flow of pure  mountain water.From Ravana waterfalls we drove to the Ravana temple cave, one of the most frightening road journeys in my life.The "Ravana Cave temple" is situated on a cliff at an elevation, the road absolutely pot-holed and narrow, just enough space for a skillful tuktuk driver to navigate the curves , akin to a adventure sports drive.A slight miscalculation on the driver could mean a drop to the road below from an elevated height, the presumable damage left to human imagination.We finally reached the temple cave, a huge rock boulder having a temple inside it. The temple was locked and there was not a soul in sight .On seeing me the local pujari wanted to open the locked temple door but on telling him that i was just a tourist he went back to his normal pace of life.After viewing this ancient cave temple returned back to the main town centre.After paying "Manjula Tuktuk " driver Rs 1000 strolled around this small one horse town, quaint and beautiful.There were a lot of tourists in the cafe's and as usual made myself to the towns local bar. The bar was crowded to capacity and as usual ordered a Lions lager beer.Sipping my beer and observing the crowd in the bar, the ultimate  "Adda" of a backpacker.Suddenly a man approached me and spoke to me  in perfect queens English, last heard in Mumbai.Mr Ryan.Vadamuttu  belonged to the "Burgher Community" of Sri Lanka, a mixed European/Sri Lankan  race community  of Sri Lanka akin to the Anglo-Indians of India.He was a local farmer who had worked for a few years in Australia, finally settling as a farmer in Ella. He was the first and only person during my entire tour with whom i could speak in normal Indian English and we discussed a lot of social topics.He was a Toddy drinker,bottled toddy being a normal drink in  Sri Lanka bars.After lengthy talks we finally departed, myself surprised at meeting the first person from the Burgher community of Sri Lanka.Returned back to the house and after a quick bathe made my way back to town for dinner. It was drizzling, extremely happy that the rains didn't ruin  my sightseeing and the trek to  Little Adams peak .Dinner was at a local restaurant in the heart of the town, a dish of chicken curry rice along with bottled water costing a total of Rs 410.After dinner made my way back to my house lodge, the road being dark with a continuous drizzle of rain, absolutely romantic, even to a solo-backpacker.Had a good nights sleep, never ever troubled by the mosquito menace that everyone warned me about during my tour fact-finding research on Sri Lanka.Woke up early on Sunday(28-10-2012) and after a brief wash dressed up ready to depart for Matara.After thanking the land-lady and paying the lodge charges made my way to the local bus-stop situated in the town centre.

"DONDRA LIGHTHOUSE",The Southernmost tip of Sri Lanka.(Sunday 29-10-2012)

Ella  to Matara by bus(Sunday 28-10-2012):-Walked to the bus-stop near the police station signboard opposite Pasla hotel.A local  guided me in the nick of time to the main bus-stop a few meters ahead from the place i was waiting.The  31 Nos bus (Banderwala to Matara) crowded bus arrived and i boarded it, not getting seating accommodation.The bus gradually meandered its way through curving roads from the tea highlands to the coastal town of Wellawaya at approx 0730 hrs .Excellent tarred roads and we passed by a few  Buddha stupas situated alongside the road at certain distances akin to small temple shrines in India.At  0830 hrs we stopped for breakfast at a small local restaurant where i had coconut water juice  and happen to spot a dwarf cat.After  the average 20 minutes breakfast break our bus began its onward journey passing by  through lagoons and the town of Hambantota, famous for its Cricket ground and also in the news as  one of the most devastated city's in the 2004 tsunami.At approx 1115 hrs we reached Dondra light-house where i alighted the bus, visiting the "Dondra lighthouse " being on my tour itinerary.In Jaffna  intended visiting "Point Pedro" the northernmost light-house in Sri Lanka but fatigue prevented me from undergoing that journey.Hence my plans to visit Dondra lighthouse, the southernmost lighthouse in the Country and the tallest in Asia. Having spent 23 years in sea-employment as a "Marine Engineer"  the attraction of the sea and sea accessories was unavoidable, akin to a fish seeking  water.A Tuktuk driver agreed to escort me to the lighthouse and back to the bus-stop at a fare of Rs 100. The lighthouse was situated on the palm fringed coastline, the sea rough and a lot of tourists busy in photography.After a short stay at the lighthouse made my way back to the bus-stop for my next destination, Galle City.

Galle City:- Galle Fort Fortification with the scenic  Galle International cricket Stadium situated opposite the Fort.

"Galle International Cricket Stadium"

The distance from Matara to Galle is approximately 36 kms by road and reached Galle at approx 1300 hrs.The Cricket Stadium and the Galle fort are a majestic sight on alighting the bus and walking towards Galle Fort city.The  Galle International cricket stadium is considered one of the most Picturesque stadiums in the world and its definitely a fact and not self-publicity.Entered the gate of the walled Galle Fort city and felt akin to being in Europe, the houses, roads and topography, very European in structure.Strolled around the enclosed walled city, reminding me of Old Jerusalem in Israel with different parts of Galle Fort  city having different distinct  structural features and communities.At a corner of the Fort near the beach while studying the naval  harbour through binoculars came across a young college couple being scolded by the police for indulging in the usual affairs of the heart.Seems , couples all over the World, especially in Asia , have difficulties in privacy. Later went to the small beach situated outside the Fort fortifications and had a sea dip along with other local holidaymakers and picnickers.The sea bathe was refreshing, the usual fish in water syndrome.After the sea-bathe made my way towards the exit  stopping for the usual Sri Lanka trade mark drink, "COCONUT WATER".At the Coconut sellers shop heard a group of young men speaking in Hindi, ages since i heard the language in Sri Lanka.They happened to be a group of I.T Professionals from Delhi  employed in Colombo and were holidaying in Galle over the rare 4-Day week-end holiday. After a brief  conversation and exchange of tourist sight-seeing information with these men i made my way out of Galle fort and to the bus-stop terminus.

 Swimmers outside Galle Fort on the beach.Its rough seas and rocky terrain unsuitable for swimming but fit for a sea dip.

The Galle bus terminus was a huge transport complex with shops and restaurants, a modern city.Absolutely hungry  at 1415 hrs and hence headed towards the nearest hotel,"South Ceylon Restaurant".Lunch consisted of "South Ceylon special fried rice(Rs 450)" which consisted of large chunks of pork, the first time i saw pork being served during my tour of the country.The delicious food was excessive for me and hence ordered the rest to be parceled, my  back-packer budget dinner for Colombo.After lunch exchanged 150 U.S $'s @ Rs 126/ Dollar  at the local money-changer, "Western Union".
At  1545 hrs boarded a mini A/c bus to Colombo, the ticket charges being  Rs 275.It was a pleasant journey through road, most of the journey being through the coast sea beach.Finally reached the outskirts of Colombo, evident through the change in topography, from Country tile houses to concrete cement buildings.Alighted at the Colombo Fort Railway station at approx 1900 hrs, darkness having set in.Opposite the station the scene was a  typical market and lodge locality, with rows of shops on the ground floor and rented lodges on the upper floors of  these short storied  buildings.Checked the rates in a few lodges finally settling for the "New Colonial Hotel,75,Olcott Mawatha,Colombo-11" after much heckling with the manager  at a daily rental charge of Rs 1000/day. "New Colonial Hotel " seemed the best of the lodges,a unisex hotel  akin to "Piccadilly Hostel" in Piccadilly street of  London, clean and tidy with single rooms and a common bathe/toil.After the normal bathe went down the hotel onto the main street, a bustling market place with manny different  small  shops akin to India.Some  shops sold  cheap clothes and footwear  ,some  liquor and the innovators specialised  in counterfeit records, films, C.D's and even soft-ware! I was surprised at the very brazen market in duplicated C.D's, records and software's, for the first time also seeing duplicated C.D's of Hindi films.Is Colombo  also a popular counterfeiting city ? Some of the hotel rooms in the locality of Fort station  might have been for "Rental couples?", a really interesting and thrilling locality of Colombo.There were a row of cheap Muslim hotels on the railway side of the road as also clothes hawkers."New Colonial hotel" owners owned the entire building having a liquor bar on the ground floor, a liquor bar/ hotel on the first floor and the lodging hotel on the second floor in which i was allotted "ROOM NO 14".Lucky to have got accommodation in this very decent hotel as it was the non-tourist season, myself and a young oriental  lady being the only foreigners, the rest being locals.Purchased a "Lions Lager beer" from the bar below and relished it with my parceled fried rice/pork carted from Galle.After dinner slept as usual, happy to have got a tidy neat hotel room in the heart of Colombo city.

St Peters statue at entrance to Negombo Fish Market.(Monday 29-10-2012)

 Residence in "New Colonial Hotel, Room Nos 14" in Colombo.(Sunday 28th -Wednesday 31st-10-2012) :- Woke up at  0500 hrs as usual and after a bathe in the common dormitory , akin to a hostel,dressed for an early morning tour of Negombo.Walked out of the hotel  and to the bus-stop situated a few minutes away,Boarded the Negombo bus and the route was a drastic change of religious icons.Along the Negombo road  there were statues of Catholic religious icons  rather than the usual Buddhist Stupa's , St Anthony being the most prominent catholic saint in Sri lanka  whose statue i saw in Jaffna as well as on the Colombo-Negombo road.For the first time came across a young Buddhist monk seated on the front seat, attired in white clothing akin to a catholic priest.In Sri Lanka's public buses, the first few seats are always reserved for the clergy.It started raining heavily during our journey to Negombo and thankfully the Buddhist monk could speak impeccable  English akin to Indian English .I requested someone to inform me on arriving at the Negombo bus stop, none understanding English until the monk spoke, surprising me.He was polite and spiritually advised me on keeping my thoughts clean to lead a good life.A message i will always remember.At approx 0800 hrs we both alighted the bus at Negombo in pouring rain, myself running for the nearest shelter as my umbrella was unfit for a torrential downpour.Boarded a Tuktuk and told him to take me to Negombo Fish market, the fare amounting to Rs 100.The entrance to the fish market had the statue of St Peter, the patron saint of fishermen in the catholic religion. This indicated that a majority of the population of fisher folk in Negombo were Catholics akin to Jaffna .Only difference, while the majority of Jaffna's population were Indian origin Tamil Hindus similarly in Negombo almost 75% of the population were Catholic Sri Lankans.Negombi is also called "Little Rome" due to the numerous Churches in the city as also Catholic religious iconic statues.As an Indian, Negombo reminded me of Goa in India, a predominantly Catholic  region in Hindu India.Entered the fish market where a few fisher  folk had their products on sale, the early morning rain delaying customers.At 0830 hrs the rain temporarily stopped and I made my way to the beach , a few fisher folk harvesting a fish catch from their nets.A few women were cleaning "Bangda Fish", for salting, later to be sold in International markets as "Dried Bangda Fish", a delicacy.The local fishermen used small fibre-glass boats with powerful outboard  engines to fish in the  nearby coastal waters , the small boats identical to a  modern ships lifeboat.Observed  a fishing boat beach itself on the beach, the fishermen  quickly alighting and offloading their nets. The fish caught were tiny silverfish, useless as a cash fish crop.

Fishermen beaching their boat on the sand and unloading their nets at Negombo.(Monday 29-10-2012)

Spotted a fisherman with a huge catch of  giant sting rays inside the market, the same for sale, the local buyers and a few tourists filling up the market.After exhausting my inquisitiveness of the Negombo Fishing industry made my exit out of the market.Satisfied my thirst with the famous "Sri Lanka red coconut", drinking two at one shot, the vendors amazed at my coconut drinking capacity.Strolled around  the city near the beach, the house being huge tiled bungalow houses.Visited St Mary's church one of the largest churches in Negombo.There were beautiful religious  statues inside the church .After visiting the church made my way to the main city center and suddenly realized that my bowels were getting active. Entered "Nayomi's fast food restaurant" and first relieved my bowels  in the toilet.All posh hotels and restaurants in Sri lanka maintain a "Locked toilet" for its customers, excellent facility for tourists.Negombo being the center of the Sri Lankan fishing Industry decided to taste the  restaurants fish products.Ordered a "Fish bread roll' and later a "Bun bread roll", prawns being the ingredient in the bread, served like hot-dogs.In Sri lanka, the prawns are served with the scales unlike my home where the scales are removed, myself being a addicted  fish eating mammal.After a pleasant breakfast and tea boarded the bus back to Colombo, the day being the wettest day of my Sri Lanka tour.For the first time i heard English and Hindi music being played in a common bus in Sri Lanka, an Elton John song played on the radio later followed by a few Sinhalese or Tamil Songs and then a Kishore.Kumar Hindi film song.There was a mixture of Tamil,Sinhalese, Hindi and English music being played on the bus stereo system, either a F.M radio channel or a  C.D record. Negombo has a 75% Sri Lankan Catholic population  and this could explain the change in a variety of  music taste.Reached Colombo Fort station at approx 1300 hrs, heading back to "ROOM NOS 14" in New colonial hotel, the most convenient location in Colombo available at a backpackers tour budget.

Rhino being given a spray shower at the Colombo Zoo.

Changed into Bermuda shorts and rubber  slippers, uniform for the rainy weather. Departed from my hotel and boarded "101 Nos" bus outside the railway station opposite my hotel as instructed by the hotel manager.Alighted the bus at Galle road and inquired with pedestrians about the "Colombo Zoo".One young lady panicked seeing me while another lady sent me in the wrong direction, after-effects of speaking in English and sporting the half-beard style.Finally, after much inquiries was guided in the right direction, the walk to Dehiwala National zoo turning out to be only a simple 2 Kms walk in heavy rains.Finally reached the zoo, the entrance ticket being Rs 500.There was a large crowd at the zoo despite the heavy downpour of rain.A butterfly park and a Ostrich enclosure were situated near the entrance , the zoo tour route being a circular path around the 22 acres of Zoo area.Walked at leisure around the zoo, viewing some unique exhibits that i saw for the first time in my life despite visiting  some of the world's best zoo's, including zoo's back home in India.Actually i had not included the "Dehiwala  National zoo" in my tour itinerary as  a review i read about it  was negative , besides, i had visited some of the World's best zoo's.It was the weather and continuous rains that made me visit the Dehiwala National zoo, not intending to waste a precious day sitting in the confines of my lonely  hotel room.In hindsight i thank the rains for leading me to the Dehiwala National zoo in Colombo.Saw the Lemur, Pygmy Hippo, eagle owl, rusty spotted cat and the  Arabian Orynx for the first time in my life.The Arabian Orynx extinct in the wild were  thriving in captivity at the Dehiwala zoo,a large herd being  bred in captivity.The original wild horses called the  Przewalski horse from Hungary was the rarest of rare exhibit at the zoo.Only a few hundred survive in the wild forests of Hungary. Hence i saw two of the World's rarest endangered species at the  Dehiwala zoo in Colombo, the Arabian Orynx and the Przewalski horse.The zoo also had white tigers, tigers, lions, leopards, puma's,giraffes, zebra's,rhino's and  elephants to name a few of the  large herbivores and carnivores that are rare in most zoo's.Wonder which  zoo in the World  was the gentleman comparing "Dehiwala National zoo" during his review, saying it was a bad zoo.The "Dehiwala National zoo" in Colombo was definitely one of the World's better maintained zoo's, although some enclosures were small, a common problem with most zoo's.Remember, read a variety of reviews and blogs on the Internet before taking a decision on a particular subject or on planning a tour.Everyone has an opinion and free to express the same on the Internet, including me.Departed from the zoo at approx 1530 hrs, walking back 2 kms to the Galle road bus-stop in drizzling rain.

The female elephant  doing its daily chores at the Dehiwala National zoo in Colombo.(Monday 29-10-2012)

Boarded the "100 nos Bus" to Galle face green, the ultimate address in Sri Lanka's high life of 5-star hotels and high rise office buildings and consulates.Alighted the bus at Galle face green, walking along the sea beach stretch and admiring the row of 5-Star hotels, reminding me of the string of casino hotels in Macau.While walking along the beach a staff member of Indian origin from the Taj Samudra hotel approached me and requested me to visit a jewellery exhibition at a nearby location.He called a tuktuk and told the driver to take me to the particular address, the tuktuk charges being Rs 50. "Lanka Gem(EX) Bureau" was a short tuktuk ride from Galle face green, an excellent jewellery  shop glistering with precious and semiprecious stones.The sales man showed me a variety of stones, some costing a few dollars to a few beyond my budget.Finally purchased a "Yellow topaz" costing 50 U.S $'s, memories of a visit to the Country. The shop also gave me a guarantee authentication certificate of the semi-precious stone purchased.Sri Lanka is famous for its semi-precious stones, Ratnakar city being a mining centre.Bizarrely, the name of the street in which this shop was located was called "Duplication road" which struck me as funny, especially in a jewellery shop,this locality being one of the country's poshest addresses.I  confirmed my doubts with the shops manager and he said that the name was in the process of undergoing a change, himself not knowing the reason for the bizarre name.I walked out of the shop and made my way to Galle green face , a pleasant walk along one of the poshest   road in Sri Lanka.Passed by the Indian Consulate building, a majestic building in the prime locality of Galle face road next to the United States information center building.Further down the road stopped at the entrance gate of "Galle face Hotel", inquiring about the hotel with the security guard. I was clad in shorts and  rubber sandals yet the guard insisted that i visit the Country's oldest  hotel.My Middle-class upbringing  would never make me  enter a 5-Star hotel with a "Hippy Style" attire  in Mumbai, the "Starboard Lounge" of Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai  being my frequent rendezvous  during a certain phase of  my life.Mustered courage and entered "Galle Face Hotel", the ultimate low budget tourist in Asia's oldest hotel, south of the Suez canal.The hotel was typical Old world charm  with various plaques telling the time-line history of this hotel, older than either the Taj.Mahal(Mumbai) or the Raffles(Singapore), two of Asia's most  famous hotels.Till now had   never realized that Asia's oldest hotel was in Colombo since i just admire "5 Star hotels" never patronizing them much.It started raining heavily while i was in this hotel, the hotel being my shelter from the sudden downpour, common monsoon weather of Colombo.There was a name plaque in the hotel naming its distinguished visitors throughout its history. Indians featuring on the list were Prime Ministers Jawarlal.Nehru and Indira.Gandhi ,as also Industrialist J.R.D.Tata.The "Taj Samudra" hotel  is beautifully located facing the Galle face green, prime location on this narrow strip of prime hotel locations in Colombo.After the rains subsided i stepped  out of this World famous hotel and boarded a bus on the main road close to the hotel.The ride back to Colombo Fort station was a short ride past a row of 5-star hotels and office buildings.Monday was "Poya Day(Full Moon day)" , a public sacred holiday in Buddhist Sri Lanka and hence all the liquor shops and bars closed.Dinner was at a Muslim restaurant next to the railway station, the menu being "Beef/Rice Dosa".After dinner strolled around the area , the ultimate backpackers residence in Colombo.Returned back to my hotel to a nights sleep.

"Lesser Beira Lake" as seen from the Cinnamon Grand hotel. A  bird watchers paradise.Notice the abundance of wild pelicans, Storks & Cormorants.I had also spotted a large monitor lizard climbing onto the hotel property from the lake.

 Colombo (Tuesday 30-10-2012):-Woke up early as usual and after the daily normal routines dressed up and headed out of the hotel for a city tour.Walked over to the bus-stop outside Colombo Fort station, a huge queue for buses as it was a working day.Boarded 100 Nos bus randomly, my intention  being to get down at Galle face road and later do a tuktuk sightseeing of the city's monuments and tourist attractions, the most practical and sensible form of transport on a backpackers budget.On alighting the bus at Galle face inquired for directions and was suddenly approached by a local speaking English, helping to escort me on a guided tour in a car!He was a driver of a fleet of tourist vehicles operated by "Cinnamon Grand hotel", voted the best 5-Star hotel in Sri Lanka for the year 2012.Mr Indika quoted a price to which i finally bargained, the final offer being Rs 3000 for a chauffeured few hours of a city tour in a Nissan car.He told me to wait in the lounge of the Cinnamon hotel and as it was the  tourist off-season, there was a thin crowd of tourists at approx 0700 hrs in the hotel, too early for normal breakfast time.The Cinnamon hotel faced the smaller area of the Beira lake called "Lesser Beira" and was a bird-watchers paradise.Went out into the swimming pool lounge of the hotel  and with my binoculars  spent at least half an hour observing the beautiful pelicans, cormorants, storks and  a lone adjutant stork having their early morning breakfast of fish in the lake. It was thrilling watching a pelican grasp fish from the lake with regular intervals akin to a human eating from a plate, such was this birds skill in catching the lake fish.As a grand finale to this early morning unexpected bird-watching  spotted a giant monitor lizard akin to a crocodile climb onto the shore  of the hotel from the lake and disappear into the lake foliage.Mr Indika finally came over to the swimming pool lounge and we both departed from the hotel into the Nissan A/c car, the whirlwind city tour about to begin.Our first stop was at the Hindu Murugan temple which  Mr Indika visited for a short prayer, a magnificent large temple.We then passed by the "Bandaranaika Memorial International hall" also called Lotus hall, a architectural gift to Sri lanka from the Chinese government., I suddenly discovered that my camera was malfunctioning and hence requested Indika to drive me to a camera shop.It was very early in the morning, most shops being closed.We drove past Cinnamon road, the poshest address in Sri Lanka with most Government consulates situated in this locality.The costliest apartments and private bungalows were in Cinnamon street.Finally at 0830 hrs managed to find a camera shop, my camera being diagnosed with a serious mechanical malady, the shutter not responding to the click press button.Inquired about purchasing a new camera but the salesman would not agree to my bargain price and hence departed, deciding to buy a digital camera in India.I had almost completed my tour and it made no sense purchasing a camera in a foreign country when the same was available in India at a cheaper price and warranty clauses.After the camera shop visit Mr Indika took me to Independence Square and later to the Gangaramaya temple.Entrance to the Gangarama monastry was Rs 125 with a guide explaining various parts of the monastery.A aged Dutch couple were being explained the temple sights and i joined them.We were shown the oldest Bodhi tree in Colombo, a part of the temple complex.A small baby elephant was living in a part of the temple complex.After returning from the Gangarama Monastery Mr Indika next took me to the "Bellagio Casino" and at 1000 hrs there were a few players at the tables.Having seen the string of Casino hotels in Macau, the World's gambling capital, should say that the "Bellagio Sri Lanka " was definitely on par with the best in the World.There are a total of four Casino's in Colombo,Bellagio, Bally's, M.G.M and Stardust, definitely a big number considering the population of the city, besides, the casino's are meant only for foreigners.Our final stop-over was at the Sri Lanka gem and jewels shop, an identical shop to "Lanka Gem Bureau" from where i had  purchased the yellow topaz stone yesterday.Finally he dropped me at the Colombo National  museum and after paying him the tour fare made my entry into the museum precincts.

INDEPENDENCE SQUARE IN COLOMBO.(Tuesday 30-10-2012)

The National Museum of Colombo , the largest museum in the country was  constructed in 1877 by the then British Governor Sir  William.Gregory(1872-1887) whose statue welcomes visitors to the museum.The architect of the museum was a Muslim of Moorish descent named Arasy Marikar Wapuche with whom the British Govt were pleased for constructing the museum and hence Friday is a holiday at the museum, the religious day for Muslims. The National Museum of Colombo is thus truly a multi-cultural museum.. It was a two storied white coloured building  having  a  vast campus which also included  a few ancient  Bodhi trees.Entrance to the museum was Rs 500 and i spent the next two hours studying the museum exhibits.At the museum i overheard a group of tourists consisting of men and women  speaking in Marathi language, the regional language of  my state of Maharashtra in India.Absolutely homesick in Sri Lanka , never hearing the regular jabber of either Hindi, English or Marathi  i quickly approached the tourists and introduced myself. They were a group of  Hindu  Maharashtrian families employed in Oman who had come to Sri Lanka for a short tour and then returning back to Oman.Its definitely a very small World and i also understood the reasons that most Indian origin settlers in various country's always loved meeting original Indians from India or watching Indian movies or tasting Indian food, it was all simple nostalgia for the Country of origin.A person interested in Ancient history and archaeology would find the exhibits on Sri Lankan ancient civilization and  history engrossing. The exhibit of the crown jewels of the rulers of Kandy  especially the  last monarch of Kandy is an interesting modern era exhibit.Natural history students and tourists  would be awed by the skeleton of a giant blue whale hanging from the ceiling of the museum on the second floor since 1894.This giant blue whale was found washed ashore on the beach at Ambalangoda, situated between the famous beaches of Bentota and Hikkaduwa in South-West Sri Lanka.At approx 1315 hrs made my exit from the museum and headed towards the bus-stop boarding bus Nos 138 and alighting at Union place road.Entered the "Sporting Star" betting shop situated on the ground floor of a building and spent half an hour just browsing the various live races shown on television.The "Race that stops a nation", the "Melbourne Cup" weekend in Australia  was due on November 3,6,8 and 10th. The Melbourne cup  racing  dates were  boldly advertised as also the Sri Lanka V/s New Zealand cricket matches, a betting bonanza for horse  and cricket punters in Sri Lanka.Lunch was at a common Muslim restaurant, the cheapest common man's  food in Sri Lanka, "Fish curry /rice" costing just Rs 80. Its my habit on tours to taste all varieties of food of that particular country, from street food to the average graded hotel food.I observed  "jack-fruit vegetable" to be a common ingredient in the average Sri Lankan meal akin to Dal in India.After lunch walked along  Justice Akbar Mwatha road and entered the premises of "Infant Jesus Church".My late mother Mrs  Greta.Furtado was overtly religious , St Anthony being her patron saint besides regularly visiting religious shrines in India. As for me, i am a borderline case of an agnostic and a catholic, attending regular Sunday mass  but never a catholic religious  fanatic! I lit three candles in the memory of my parents at the church and made my way into the street towards the bus-stop.Boarded a bus to Colombo Fort station and after refreshing myself at the hotel room decided to visit the 5-star hotels on Galle face road.As usual, akin to a local boarded  the crowded 100 nos bus and alighted at Galle face road, prime Colombo city becoming familiar to my memory.Strolled along Galle face green,a beautiful sea-face promenade. A Kite flying festival was held at this ground the previous day and hence a hawker was selling plastic kites of various designs and shapes, similar to Chinese kites rather than the paper kites of India. Inquired the price of plastic kites with a hawker,the prices averaging Rs 500, good as soveiners in India.  Walked along Galle face beach and viewed some of the common non-vegetarian delicacies sold by the hawkers, the most common being hermit crab/ puri and prawn/ puri , recipes i saw for the first time in my life.Both, the tiny crabs as well as the  small prawns were served on fried  puri's with their shells intact, myself having tasted the Prawns/Bread bun recipe at Negombo.

Multinational  company "THE SPORTING TIMES" betting shop in Nuwara Eliya .At 5 % Tax , bets are  accepted on all types of  sports.(Friday 26-10-2012)

My first 5-Star hotel visit was to the "Taj Samudra" situated in prime Galle face green locality, facing the Indian ocean. Entire Galle face road area has a string of 5-star hotels akin to Casino's in Macau and i wondered about the competition for tourists among these hotels , especially during a World economic recession.Colombo definitely  had a large number of hotels considering the density of the population.Another posh 5-star hotel chain ,  the "Shangri La" was in the process of construction next to the Taj Samudra hotel.From the Taj Samudra walked down Galle face and entered the "Galadhari Hotel", all 5-star hotel lobby's being similar in facade.There was a dinner being hosted for participants of the "World Carrom Championship" at the hotel, myself surprised at the reception for a poor mans sport.Next entry was into the "Hilton Hotel" situated  adjacent  to Galadhari hotel. I had inquired about the daily rental charges for a hotel room in all these hotels, the average price being approx U.S $'s 180/room and the costliest being the Hiltomn hotel at over U.S $ 200 room/day.No doubt hotel heiress Paris.Hilton leads a gregarious musical life.Sri Lanka's tallest building is the "World Trade Center"  followed by the "Bank of Ceylon" building, both situated close to the Hilton hotel.Strolled towards Colombo harbour and came across "Chetham Street" where a group of money changers approached me , typical of any harbour locality in Asia.I was surprised to see two  traffic policemen mounted on horses directing the traffic at the main zebra-crossing road near Chetham street.The last time i saw Mounted police was at the Vatican City in Rome in 2010  and a few decades ago at the football matches in Calcutta.Observed the systematic discipline with which these two horse mounted policemen directed the traffic as well as the rush hour office crowd.This part of Colombo named York street(Colombo 1)  was the central office locality and hence packed with office-goers returning home from their offices.Spotted  the Sporting Times betting shop on the first floor of a building in this plush office locality.Entered this building and was taken by a ancient  Pre-World war lever lift to the first floor of the building.The last time i entered a antique lift of this type was at the Mahalaxmi race-course in Mumbai, a race-course over a century old.The "Sporting Times" betting shop at York street was centrally air-conditioned, a real luxury compared to the normal common betting shops of this company in other locations in the city. This indicated that its  betting clients  were mostly elite high income earners.Every betting shop in Sri Lanka had a special "V.I.P Lounge", a fact i observed at Nuwara Eliya, akin to a "Members Enclosure" at a race-course. The "V.I.P Lounge" in a betting shop catered  to clients who paid an extra fee for entry into that lounge , offering them privacy from the common betting public..

At the "Galle Face Hotel" in Colombo.

From  York Street walked all the way to my hotel, purchased a "Lions Lager beer" and drank the same in the privacy of my neat and tidy room.Dinner was at the local Muslim restaurant situated next to Colombo Fort station railway, an exotic dish of  "Beef intestines/ Rice", tasting this dish for the first time in my life.Beef products are sold in Muslim hotels and Pork products in Sinhalese hotels, the owner of my hotel himself selling pork dishes on his second floor restaurant.In fact i had been to his restaurant initially but the pork recipes were already consumed by customers, a booming liquor cum restaurant business.I was surprised to observe that most  Sri Lankan Buddhists were non-vegetarians.After dinner  strolled  around my locality with the confidence of  a local although i didn't understand nor speak Sinhalese or Tamil.Spotted  the "Sporting Star" logo on the adjacent building next to my hotel and on entering the betting shop on the first floor was greeted with a scene similar to a liquor bar. This bookie shop was filled with punting clients following South African  and English horse races  besides Greyhound races. interest in  sports betting like Cricket and soccer also seemed popular, an exact replica of the English bookie shops of London, only difference, Britain was a First World Country while Sri Lanka was a developing Country.From the bookie shop went back to "Room No 14" in New Colonial Hotel and slept the last night of my Sri Lanka tour in the country.

At "Lanka Gem (Ex) Bureau",semi-precious and birthstones shop in Colombo.

Colombo( Wednesday 31-10-2012):- Woke up on Wednesday morning as usual and  left the hotel at 0530 hrs in the morning.Entered Colombo Fort station after purchasing a Rs15 train ticket to Mount Lavinia station. Colombo Fort station could be the equivalent of one of Mumbai city's smaller railway stations in size and was crowded with commuters at 0600 hrs in the morning.Boarded the train at 0630 hrs, a scenic short journey along the coastal sea beach of Colombo, the sea just a few maters away from the railway tracks.As our train passed through the larger Beira lake vicinity  got the opportunity to again view the beautiful pelicans in their early morning hunt for fish.Finally  at approx 0650 hrs reached Mount Lavinia station situated near the beach, having to cross a foot-bridge to approach the main town .From the station walked up a small hill , inquiring the way to the beach and the famous "Mount Lavinia Hotel". School children were busy on their way to school the locality consisted  of large palatial bungalows and a few small buildings.mount Lavinia is considered the bohemian suburban town of  Colombo, famous for its night-life, beach and tourist economy.It is the most liberal region in Sri Lanka that organizes its "Annual Gay Pride" and "Rainbow Kite" festivals.A local guided me to the famous "Mount Lavinia Hotel" , established in 1806 ,hence over 200 years old which  has its origins and roots in a tragic love story involving Sir Thomas.Maitland, the Governor of Ceylon(1805-1811) and a ordinary gypsy dance  girl named Lovina.At the entrance of the Mount Lavinia hotel was a beautiful artificial waterfall Japaneses garden pond  with some of the largest Koi fish.Entered the hotel and was not surprised to be the only person in the lounge at approx 0715 hrs in the morning.Made my way to the receptionist and inquired the daily hotel room rates, much cheaper than the 5-Star hotels at Galle Face in Colombo.Some scenes from the immortal 2nd World war war epic film "Bridge on the River Kwai" were filmed in the Mount Lavinia hotel.Walked out of the hotel and made my way to the beach front busy with early morning joggers and walkers.It was a pleasant rainless morning, excellent weather for jogging or walking.The sea was rough, typical monsoon weather. One important aspect i observed of all the non tourist  beaches in Sri Lanka is that they are absolutely clean and never ever contaminated with human excreta or used as a dumping waste ground.Colombo is a bustling city yet a person can have a sea dip at the Galle face sea beach or even at Negombo fishing beach, the sand absolutely clean.The view of Colombo city from Mount Lavinia sea beach was excellent, especially the towering twin World  Trade center and the Bank of Ceylon buildings.From the beach made my way towards the main road intending to board a bus on the return journey to Colombo.On reaching the main road had tea at a small restaurant "Hotel De Pillawoos", a "Sporting Star" bookie shop situated above this restaurant.Observed that "De Pillawoos" was a common name for many fast food  restaurants situated  around Colombo, akin to a brand name.Boarded the bus to Colombo, crowded with office commuters.Alighted the bus near the Hilton hotel deciding to explore the harbour locality of the city.Walked  towards Chetham street and onto York Street  stopping at the "Cargills (Ceylon) PLC" department store, the original and oldest department store in Sri Lanka.A "Kentucky Fried chicken" franchisee was situated inside this Victorian building and hence i decided to have the common American fast-food for breakfast rather than an exotic local Ceylonese dish.At 0900 hrs i was the first customer in this restaurant, the staff opening the main door for my entrance!Ordered the common chicken burger and had a talk about this historic building and department store with the salesman.This building was built in 1844 and had wooden flooring, besides, most of the original wooden structure of the building was intact, few pieces being renovated due to the normal wear and tear process.After breakfast had a look at the department store groceries and purchased two chocolates, my favourite travel snack.Walked out of historic edifice "Cargills(Ceylon) PLC" further down York street and reached the entrance  gate of "COLOMBO HARBOUR". I was filled with years of shipping nostalgia on seeing the harbour gates, myself having passed through numerous such gates in various ports during my 23 years(1983 to 2006) shipping career as a "Marine engineer" on  various types of Mercantile Marine ships.I was at "Gate Nos 3" situated near the main port clock tower at the end of York Street.This was the main gate of Colombo Port as  all shipping ports having different gates  at different locations for the convenience of staff and sea-farers.Colombo port has one of the World's largest artificial harbour and is among the World's 35 biggest ports.The "Criminal Investigation Headquarters" of Sri Lanka  headquarters is situated adjacent to Gate Nos 3 in York street , the entrance being a long blue tunnel that is clearly visible from the road. Entered the "Grand Oriental hotel"  situated just outside "Gate Nos 3", a historic building  and hotel over 125 years old .Akin to "Galle face hotel" there were a few plaques in the lobby explaining the glorious guests and history of the hotel. World famous  Russian short story writer Anton.Chekov had stayed in this hotel in 1890.Inquired about the hotel  room rates and various day  tour facilities offered by the hotel to different  city's in Sri Lanka, very convenient mode of sightseeing  for sailors.This was the first hotel i came across that had a "CYCLE RENTAL SCHEME" for tourists, the rates being Rs 300 for the first hour of hire and subsequently Rs 200 for every additional hour of cycle usage.From the Grand Oriental hotel  walked along the boundary wall of the harbour known as "Main Street" and came across a string of small horse-racing bookie shops.On inquiry learnt that these were private bookies dealing only in horse-racing unlike the international  betting companies like "Sporting star" and "The Sporting times" that accepted bets on any type of sports.I was surprised at the amount of  legalized Bookie shops in  tiny Sri Lanka which unlike First World and developed economies did not have a social security system for its citizens, besides, it was a developing country.Betting tax is at a reasonable 5% and honestly, the next time i think of speculative investments, would definitely wager on Cricket or boxing matches in Sri Lanka.Hope that the Indian Government realizes the folly of banning legalized sports betting in the country  and hence indirectly encouraging illegal betting.WANT TO BET LEGALLY, THAN FLY TO COLOMBO AND BET OFFICIALLY AT THE NEAREST "SPORTING STAR" OR "THE SPORTING TIMES" BOOKIE SHOP. HAVE I LET THE CAT OUT OF THE BAG FOR PUNTERS ?Quenched my thirst with the famous "Sri Lanka Red Coconut water" finding bizarre similarities between Mumbai harbour and Colombo harbour localities As a Catholic decided to visit a church before my departure to India and hence inquired about St Anthony Church, a  pilgrim church in Colombo.A local man approached me and spoke in english, inquring if i was of Tamilian descent.He agreed to guide me to the church in a tuktuk asking me to beware of cheats in Colombo.Mr Gregory spoke to me normally and on reaching the church  i asked the driver for the bill, expecting  charges of approx Rs 100. Mr Gregory told me that the bill was Rs 600 but  that he would ask the tuktuk driver to reduce it to Rs 300! Both the driver and and gentleman con-man Mr  Gregory got astonished when i raised my voice at the  tuktuk driver ,threatening to call the police for a case of extortion. The driver and Mr Gregory realized that they had  played a wrong con game and agreed to a tuktuk fare of Rs 150 which seemed reasonable.I walked away from the duo into the church and was not surprised to read signboards inside the church cautioning worshipers against thieves.The notice  must have been as a caution  against  pickpocketers rather than smooth con artists  like gentleman Mr Gregory, a real con experience in Colombo. AS A SOLO BACKPACKER OR TOURIST, THE BIGGEST DANGER IS FALLING PREY TO CRIMINALS OR CON -ARTISTS. After a brief visit to the church made my way towards the bus-stop for my final destination , Colombo fort station.There were a lot of small religious shops outside St Anthony's church selling candles and other religious articles as the Statue of the saint is considered miraculous amongst worshipers. At approx 1115 hrs boarded a bus opposite St Anthony's church a bit puzzled about my location and direction.An elderly gentleman seated next to me guided me also willing to buy my ticket which i refused, instead purchasing his ticket, a paltry amount.During my solo tours i have come across various individuals, some out to con or fool  me while some really helpful, like this elderly gentleman.Alighted the bus at "1st Cross Street, Colombo- 11" as guided by the gentleman, a busy market locality of Colombo.Walked through narrow streets in a crowded locality with the shops selling all types of a variety of products, akin to the narrow crowded  shopping gully's of Mumbai city.Finally reached my home away from home, room Nos 14 in New Colonial Hotel. After a quick bathe went to the bar below and purchased a 'Lions lager beer" .consuming the same in the privacy of my room.The last lunch of my tour  in Sri Lanka had to be at the "New Colonial hotel" restaurant situated on the first floor, a dish of "Devilled fried rice pork" costing Rs 500.. "Devilled" was a culinary term i heard and tasted for the first time in Sri Lanka and delicious.As mentioned before, food in Sri Lankan restaurants is always meant for two people and hence packaged half of the food, hoping to consume it or donate it as i hate food wastage.
After lunch went to my room , checked my packing and finally checked out of "New Colonial Hotel", an excellent backpackers budget hotel.As soon as i had stepped out of the hotel  began walking towards  the 187 Nos bus-stop a few minutes walking distance  from the hotel , the only bus going to Averiwatte  town. Fortune favoured me and a 187 nos empty bus arrived at the stop just on my arrival at approx 1300 hrs , akin to a tuktuk, and thus began my journey to Averiwatte town from where i would have to board the connecting shuttle bus to Badaranaike airport. The bus crawled on the road due to heavy traffic and i was afraid of being late at the "Check-In Counter" of  Bandaranaike airport .Finally reached Averiwatte town at approx 1345 hrs, the short  journey  taking a total of 1 hr 45 mins in peak city.A  elderly gentleman  was  also waiting for the "Airport Shuttle bus" along with his son , an employees in a  Gulf country.The Airport shuttle bus finally arrived at approx 1510 hrs and after a short drive reached  Bandaranaike airport at 1520 hrs, entering the departure lounge.My tour of Sri Lanka had finally come to an end, the ultimate in a  "Being there, seen that and done that"  backpackers hectic budget tour. As an outsider tourist i was fascinated by Sri Lanka for its unique identity  and cultural  differences  with South India although the living conditions were similar, Sri Lanka being a multi-cultural and multi-religious country. . Sri Lanka seems to be the only former British colony that has still held onto  some of its Pre-Independent British street names as well as monuments.Strangely, unlike India, its northern super-power neighbour, Sri Lankans have not embraced the English language as have Indians.Sri Lankans seem to be  following the Japanese model of encouraging its own languages as a medium of instruction as it is a a majority Buddhist nation akin to economic superpower Japan.Indian , the largest colony of Great Britain  immediately Indianized street names as  also  replacing British monuments  after attaining Independence in 1947 .Today, English language, the World's link language and the game of Cricket  remains the greatest legacy of Great Britain in India with  British era statues confined to museums and British street names a memory .In Sri Lanka, many relics of the British era are very much preserved  including the game of   cricket and the  introduction of  multi-national "Betting shops".

Egmore Train station in Chennai :- Train Terminus for "Chennai Express Train" to Mumbai

Colombo To Mumbai, the return journey home (Wednesday 31-Friday 2nd-10-2012):- Cleared my airport  security check and entered the main baggage lounge.News was that there was a delay in the Spice Jet flight "SG 3102" from 1745hrs to 1845 hrs. I went to the Spice jet counter, checked in my baggage and collected my boarding ticket "Seat 20A".Entered the departure lounge and strolled through the "Duty free shops", educating myself on the latest innovations in products and luxury items.The biggest change was in the sale of "Cigarette Cartons" at the duty free lounge, a huge "Death warning" printed on every carton, irrespective of the brand.Every human have their own legal  poisons! Spotted a free internet service provider and quickly assessed it ,browsing through the news.Was aghast on reading that a cyclonic storm had devastated parts of Tamil Nadu coast and  Jaffna in Sri Lanka and was heading towards Chennai city, hence the delay in our flight.Our Flight got further delayed and i was only hoping that it wouldn't be cancelled due to the cyclone in Chennai  city. Whiled away the idle hours on the internet later having my packaged dinner which i had carried from New Colonial hotel restaurant.Heaved a sigh of relief on reading the latest news that the cyclone had bypassed Chennai city and had taken a different route, also reducing in intensity.In Chennai Port  the tanker ship "Pratibha Cauvery"  of "Pratibha shipping" in which  Mr Sunil.Pawar , a "Mazdock Apprentice Alumni(Mazagon Dock Ltd Marine Engineer apprentice)" was  a Director had run aground , the biggest casualty of the Cyclone. Later at  home in Mumbai   read about  a loss of sailor lives in that tragedy.In the early 1980's myself and my Mazdock  batch-mate Mr Rajan.Vardhan  sailing as 5th engineers on "Lok Vinay"  had experienced a similar identical  cyclonic storm in Chennai(Madras), drifting in sea for a few days before returning to the Port alive.We all  sailors on board that ship will definitely not forget that deathly experience during our life-time.Yes, again i was lucky and the flight was delayed but not cancelled.The plane had arrived late due to the Cyclone and hence the delay.We finally boarded the plane at 2015 hrs , the weather excellent at the Bandaranaike Airport in Colombo. The plane took-off at 2030 hrs  and arrived at Chennai airport at approx 2215 hrs, a very rough and bumpy landing.The first thing i did landing on Indian soil was to contact my house-keeper Sabina.Dias, the care-taker of my house and pets during my absence from home.Walked out of the "Green chanel" at 2245 hrs a into the dark night with a slight drizzle of rain .Asked for directions  and headed  with my torchlight towards Tirusalem station to catch the train to Egmore station.Luck again favoured me and the train had  just arrived at 2255 hrs at the platform  on my arrival into the station, forcing me to sprint with a heavy backpacker load in order to catch the train.This could have been the last train of the day. Made it into the train in the nick of time, fortune favouring me beyond imagination.Luck plays an important role in anyone's life, irrespective of Status, education, wealth or sex and i should know it better, having spent a life-time in treacherous seas, besides  also punting on race-horses. Most ship owners are also race-horse owners as luck plays an important role in both the  Industry's.The difference between the first and second  horse  in a race can mean either  monetary success or monetary ruin.Wonder  the reasons for luck eluding me as a race horse punter ? Reached Egmore  station at 2330 hrs and walked  the station  over-bridge to reach the main out-station terminus to catch the "Chennai Express " train  at 0650 hrs in the morning..As it was already almost mid-night i decided to spend my time at the station rather than checking into a hotel for a few hours.Inquired about the rest-rooms at the station, none available , as all were under renovation or repairs! Hence spent the entire morning at Egmore Railway station and experienced the life of India's vagabonds and the poor who sleep at railway stations or other public places.At 0615 hrs after a wash at the common  passenger lounge made my way to "12164 Chennai Express" into Coach S4 and parked myself into Seat Nos 49.
The "Chennai Express" was delayed by an hour due to the Cyclonic storm, besides, for the first time in my life  traveled in a berth that had a few vacant seats, something unimaginable in Indian railways, especially on the fastest train between Chennai and Mumbai city's.Reasons for the empty seats was the Cyclone storm.The train finally departed from Chennai station, an hour late, the weather cloudy and excellent.We were just three passengers in my berth which was supposed to have the normal six passengers.As the train journey progressed got acquainted with my co-travelers.The entire journey was pleasant , in cool monsoon climate with rainfall on approaching the Andhra Pradesh state border towards the afternoon.The train got packed to its full capacity once we entered the State of Maharashtra proving  the diversity in climate and in the people of India.Foreign tourists always get confused about the cultural and climatic diversity of India, many asking me in India itself if i was an Indian !.My legs had been put to maximum usage during my 15 day solo-backpackers tour of Sri Lanka beginning in Mumbai and were aching with stress..The train reached Dadar Terminus at 0550 hrs on Friday, much earlier than the normal scheduled time, another personal first time experience in train travel.Walked out of Dadar East  station and wearily climbed up the over-head footbridge steps onto Dadar West. Boarded a taxi and finally reached my  small 5-star Home,  a house being  the best residence to any individual, especially to a solo-backpacker with no permanent tour address.

P.S :- THANKS TO THE INTERNET AND "WIKEPEDIA ENCYCLOPEDIA" FOR ASSISTANCE IN DISCOVERING AND LATER  WRITING THIS  BLOG OF MY PERSONAL SOLO-BACKPACKER TOUR OF SRI LANKA.